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Old 08-11-2018, 09:54 AM  
MTG#10 MTG#10 is offline
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Mechanics/SAUTO I need some advice
My daughter has a 2006 Mercury Milan (Ford Fusion) and since I bought it for her 6 months ago she's had trouble with the blower motor. Until yesterday when it wouldn't come on we just reached under the glove box smacked it with the palm of our hand and it would work fine but now that doesn't work.

I've read online that the resistors are notorious for going bad but a lot of people have problems with the motor as well so I decided to look at the motor itself first. The plug that plugs into the motor and the plug on the motor itself are both melted inside. I tried hot wiring the motor directly to the battery and the fan turned but it created a huge hot spark at the wire. Im guessing that's because I bypassed the resistor?

The damn plug was $30 and I'm waiting for the motor to arrive at O'reilly's which is another $70. When I replace these am I at risk of melting another motor plug because the resistor could be bad as well? Is there a way to test the resistor? The resistor is $170 so I'm hoping that isn't the culprit.

One more thing that gives me hope that it isnt the resistor is before going out completely the blower worked on all speeds.
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Old 11-30-2018, 12:49 PM   #61
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I would chip in on a SAUTO fruit basket
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Old 11-30-2018, 05:21 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by Bugeater View Post
wheel bearings are still good I think. Why would that affect the brakes anyway? It didn't before.
I've seen them have enough play that they compress the piston on the caliper as it wobbles back and forth.

Trust me on this. Proof will be when cooper laughs at me
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Old 11-30-2018, 05:23 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Buehler445 View Post
Happens yo. It was a Chevy but we just had this on one of our pickups. It didn't get mushy, but it cycled the ABS and was a pain in the cock to drive.
Yep. Different than what bugs talking about. Yours probably only occurred below 5 mph if I was guessing. One would drop to 0 before the rest. That's common
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Old 11-30-2018, 05:26 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by Bugeater View Post
No lights on yet, which is surprising since the pedal seems like it's going almost all the way to the floor. I'm going to replace the wheel cylinders on the rear since I have it tore apart anyway and they usually are what takes out the rear brakes. Thing does have over 100k on it now so they're probably due to take a shit.

As far as the wheel bearings, I replaced the hubs a while back, they weren't loose just noisy as hell. I'm guessing that was SAUTO ****ing with me on that one.
actually I was serious, and ****ing with you a little, but I've seen a new bearing do that before when a guy didn't get it torqued right at home ... wobbles and pushes the piston in and it's like your pumping the brakes after replacement to get them towork
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Old 11-30-2018, 05:29 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAUTO View Post
Trust me on this. Proof will be when cooper laughs at me
cooper knows everything there is to know about everything brah. **** your experience.
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Old 11-30-2018, 05:29 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by cooper barrett View Post
Wheel bearing
There it is. This guy always likes to make himself look stupid.
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Old 11-30-2018, 05:52 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by SAUTO View Post
There it is. This guy always likes to make himself look stupid.
All he had to do is look back in this thread and he'd have seen that the bearing is part of the hub assembly on this truck. And like me, he would now see what you're saying, with the caliper being mounted to the knuckle a loose hub would have that rotor all out of whack in there.
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Old 12-01-2018, 04:21 AM   #68
cooper barrett cooper barrett is offline
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Originally Posted by SAUTO View Post
I've seen them have enough play that they compress the piston on the caliper as it wobbles back and forth.

Trust me on this. Proof will be when cooper laughs at me
when sitting still???
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Old 12-01-2018, 04:31 AM   #69
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Brake fluid is hygroscopic, Google it yourself, and flushing the system is the key to making hydraulic (master, calipers, and wheel cylinders to last.

Installing high end brake fluid (silicon) helps too as it does not draw moisture, is less corrosive, and more stable for longer periods. They do NOT mix.
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Old 12-01-2018, 10:03 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by cooper barrett View Post
when sitting still???
Where does he say anything about sitting still?
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Old 12-01-2018, 10:11 AM   #71
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Where does he say anything about sitting still?
Ssshhhh, quiet. You're going to scare off the entertainment clown.
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Old 12-01-2018, 10:11 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by cooper barrett View Post
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, Google it yourself, and flushing the system is the key to making hydraulic (master, calipers, and wheel cylinders to last.

Installing high end brake fluid (silicon) helps too as it does not draw moisture, is less corrosive, and more stable for longer periods. They do NOT mix.
To swap you have to get all of the glycol based fluid out number one. And they recommend replacement of all hoses before switching. And THEN if any moisture gets in the system it could either freeze and make the brakes not work or BOIL at 212 degrees IIRC and cause a loss of brakes.
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Old 12-01-2018, 10:30 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by SAUTO View Post
Where does he say anything about sitting still?
Because checking for brake system hydraulic pressure (pedal) is something you do while driving at 40MPH...

Where did you see where he was moving when he complained about his petal going to the floor???


3x5 test for brakes ... You pump the brake pedal THREE TIMES and hold it for FIVE SECONDS.


NOT Accelerate to 40MPH and pump the brake pedal THREE TIMES and hold it for FIVE SECONDS.

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Old 12-01-2018, 10:41 AM   #74
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And I slept in this morning and wasn't thinking clearly, obviously because I forgot the most important thing...

DOT 5 BRAKE FLUID IS NOT RECOMMENDED OR COMPATIBLE WITH ABS SYSTEMS. IT'S DANGEROUS AND CAN CAUSE A LOSS OF BRAKING DUE TO EXCESSIVE FOAM CAUSED BY THE FLUID GOING THROUGH THE ABS PUMP.

I think cooper barrett should refrain on giving anyone automobile advice on this forum anymore. He could have gotten someone killed here.

In fact it's even covered in ASE certification.
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Old 12-01-2018, 10:43 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by cooper barrett View Post
Because checking for brake system hydraulic pressure (pedal) is something you do while driving at 40MPH...

Where did you see where he was moving when he complained about his petal going to the floor???


3x5 test for brakes ... You pump the brake pedal THREE TIMES and hold it for FIVE SECONDS.


NOT Accelerate to 40MPH and pump the brake pedal THREE TIMES and hold it for FIVE SECONDS.
Who said anything about 40 mph?


Honestly I should ban you from anything auto related on this forum forever. The advice you gave in this thread was WAY WRONG and potentially dangerous to people
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