Woodworking

[notorious]

Originally Posted by HemiEd

After that I plan on a cabinet from a tree from my yard topped by the 2007 ice storm. It was a black cherry & I had the bottom 12 feet cut into planks. It went into the attic for 3 years to season. Then I planed it all out.

Gorgeous wood.

Found a 22 buried in the tree. Planed off shiny & bright. I will put that in a prominent location for conversation.

The refurbishing has stretched my plumbing & electrical. Learned window glazing. Tile. Now starting on sanding the hard wood floors. Hope to have it done next month.
Do you have any pictures of the black cherry? You make a great point on the seasoning of the wood. I have a stack of oak boards going through that right now .




Friend does some really exotic cutting boards. I had no idea they could be so pretty.

On those first two cedar chests I wet sanded them with 400, 600 and finally 1000, then buffed them out with my polisher just like a car fender.

You basically water popped the grain.

150 grit is more than enough for most woods. If you want to get Maple or Hickory to stain dark, a mixture of 50/50 denatured alcohol and water will do the trick. Mix it, spray it on (after sanding), and it should be dry in 1/2 hour and ready for stain.

Water popping before stain will allow it to penetrate across the entire board instead of just the grain. Put a heavy sealer and a couple coats of good finish (I use only floor finish, obviously) and you will have a perfectly smooth finished piece that is well protected.

I usually don't like to pop oak too hard because the grain is so open. I usually mix more alcohol in to minimize opening up the grain too much. If you open the grain too much you will get what's called bleedback and the product will look like shit.

[DJ's left nut]

Originally Posted by notorious

You basically water popped the grain.

150 grit is more than enough for most woods. If you want to get Maple or Hickory to stain dark, a mixture of 50/50 denatured alcohol and water will do the trick. Mix it, spray it on (after sanding), and it should be dry in 1/2 hour and ready for stain.

Water popping before stain will allow it to penetrate across the entire board instead of just the grain. Put a heavy sealer and a couple coats of good finish (I use only floor finish, obviously) and you will have a perfectly smooth finished piece that is well protected.

I usually don't like to pop oak too hard because the grain is so open. I usually mix more alcohol in to minimize opening up the grain too much. If you open the grain too much you will get what's called bleedback and the product will look like shit.

Yeah but I...uh...use minwax. Poorly.