The Motorcycle Discussion Thread

[Dayze]

I figure there are some motorcycle guys/gals on CP, so I thought we could have a place to talk all things Motorcycles.

Tire Mount and Balance Prices (as of 10/29/16)

Prices based on if you remove the wheels yourself and bring the wheels and new tires with you:

Cycle Gear - $35 per wheel if you buy tires from them. $58 per wheel if you buy tires elsewhere
Rawhide - $65 per wheel (assuming it would be the same at other HD dealers. they book it at 1/2 hr per wheel)
C R Cycle Tires (DeSoto) - $30 per wheel

Cheapest I've found my Michelin Commander II's. Seem like they have good prices on other brands too.
http://www.jakewilson.com - Free 3 day shipping on orders over $75

[Fansy the Famous Bard]

nicely done sir, way more than I'd be willing to risk.

[Dayze]

haha.
Once I pretty much researched everything and what to do etc well beforehand, by the time I got to actually doing it, I knew what I had to do. Thank god it fired right up lol.

I've read the IAC error can be caused by either vacuum leak, or some sort of intake leak. I did, while doing the wire tuck, move around the throttle & return/idle cables during the course of it. So it's possible something got out of whack on the cables.

I checked the intake flap (for lack of a better term) with the a/c and bracket removed (only leaving the throttle body open) and the flap opens during idle, and more importantly, returns to it's original position/closed when shutting off the bike.

Sometime this week, when it's not -10 out in the garage lol, I'll get back out there to try the reset procedure to see if that fixes it. But, the good thing is I'm not getting any VO2 codes or anything so I don't think I'll have to jack with the XiEDs to fix the problem.

[Dayze]

Note: the 3" tank lift looks bad ass. and cleaning up the front cylinder area with the coil/ignition relocation + removing all the cosmetic shielding that hid the wires, REALLY opens up the front.
So much so, it makes the bars 'look' a bit taller than they actually are. I think with the tank lift, wire tuck, and lowering the bike, the bars will look great. Now I'm questioning on even replacing them. Ultimately I'm sure I will, but I don't think i'll go with the 14" like I originally thought. I might even just stick with the 10" and not need to shell out cash for a cable/wire extension kit.

[seaofred]

Originally Posted by Dayze

Note: the 3" tank lift looks bad ass. and cleaning up the front cylinder area with the coil/ignition relocation + removing all the cosmetic shielding that hid the wires, REALLY opens up the front.
So much so, it makes the bars 'look' a bit taller than they actually are. I think with the tank lift, wire tuck, and lowering the bike, the bars will look great. Now I'm questioning on even replacing them. Ultimately I'm sure I will, but I don't think i'll go with the 14" like I originally thought. I might even just stick with the 10" and not need to shell out cash for a cable/wire extension kit.

Umm.. pictures or it didn't happen... Does that work here?

[Dayze]

Originally Posted by seaofred

Umm.. pictures or it didn't happen... Does that work here?

Yep.

I have a few pics on my camera at home. Plan on taking a lot more as I go through this troubleshooting process (if the reset doesn't work).

I honestly think it's the cables; might have got tweak inadvertently during all the jockeying around.

it's brand new, so I can't imagine it's anything wrong, from a parts standpoint. if the reset doesn't work, I'll probably put the stock A/C back on and see if it still does it. If not, it's probably some type of intake leak on the new A/C

[Dayze]

I'd almost be willing to bet (Casino Cash of course) the issue is due to either the TPS or Idle Control actuator harness not being plugged in. there is a rogue harness (small) that is in the same area as the injectors that is not hooked up. I'm nearly certain of it.

I'm going to undo the wire tuck; remove the silicon tape I used to consolidate the wires, and see if there is a matching small un-hooked harness in the birds nest of wires.

[Lzen]

Dayze, you are much more brave than I. Good luck on finding the problem.

So I was excited to learn that it will be up in the 40s by Thursday and Friday. I'm thinking hey great, I can ride to work. Then I remembered that we still have a ton of snow that needs to melt first.

Maybe by next week (supposed to be 50s and 60s).

[Dayze]

Either I'm brave, or stupid (...don't answer that. lol).

Nah; I think I've narrowed it down. Whether that fixes it or not.....lol. We'll see.

[Dayze]

One thing I forgot to mention for anyone contemplating a coil relo on a dyna or sportster (or any other kit fro DKcustoms.com)is the plug wires you'll receive are not pre-cut to the length for the shorter distance from the coils new position to the plugs.

I suppose you could make the stock plug wires work with some cutting, but I would want to screw with it. The new plug wires come with a boot ready to go on the coils end but it's up to you to cut the length to your liking I the plug end. Wires are plenty long enough if you don't cut too short lol. I simply took the wires and plugged them into the coil, then got a rough idea of the 'look' i wanted in terms of length from the coil to the plugs; marked it, and went from there.

The wires do come with plug boots and crimping connectors (for lack of a better term), but you have to be careful cuttings two not damage the insulation around the core, or the core itself.

In preparation, I had purchased a cheap wire cutter/stripper for various gauges, including an "ignition gauge ". However the pugs seemed to be larger than 9mm which I 'think' might be some sort of standard.. I did some practice cuts and strips on the old and unused plug wires, but the ignition setting on the cutters/pliers didn't work. So in a pinch I practiced a few times with scissors, then went for the moment of truth *freshly cracked beer on stand-by*; they do make a cutter than goes into a vice and has a razor blade that does the job quick and easy, but I didn't have it and didn't feel like buying one for this single application

I was VERY careful and able to cut and strip to fold the core over and crimp the connector. No issues I assume since the bike fired right up. But just in case anyone is considering doing a relo I figured I'd throw it out there, it wasn't "hard" by any means, but take your time and you'll be fine.

My legs were so ****ing sore tonight I didn't even mess with the 72 tonight, but I'm planning on doing so tomorrow night. I think I'll try to get the idle straightened out then **** with installing the. XiEDs since the ECM wasn't throwing any sort of O2 codes. Front O2 harness should be fairly easy to get to, but the rear is boxed in like a turtles pecker, probably have to remove some other shit (possibly the fuse box in front of the battery box) to get to the bastard.

[Dayze]

So Dayze was able to fix the problem. As suspected, the Idle Air Control harness wasn't hooked into the throttle body. No idea how/when/why it was off during the install, but it was.

clipped it in, put the main fuse back in; fired right up on the 1st try and idled perfectly. Sounds SWEET. First time I've heard it idle correctly. Nice and loud, but I don't think too loud. and not a 'raspy' loud like some cheap pipes. Nice deep rumble.

I also took lots of pictures I need to download off of the camera. I'll post them here for shits and grins.

Also finished the wire tuck and tank lift.
However, of all things, I can't find the nut that connects the tank at the back end lol. Several occasions of dropping nuts, bolts, washers etc. Like always, anytime working on a car or bike, something will hit the ground and go into the abyss...never to be seen again. There are lots of leaves in my garage so it's possible it may be hiding. Either way, no biggie. I can just order it since it's still to balls cold to do anything.

[Dayze]

Ok, so I snapped some pictures last night as I was going through the troubleshooting and button-up. Sorry for the number of pics, but maybe it'll come in handy in the future for anyone wanting to do this to their Sporty.

Stock Set up; coil and Ignition on right side; stock pipes. stock tank location


New Air Cleaner Bracket Removal for troubleshooting


New Air Cleaner Bracket Removal -Crankcase Breather bolts



Throttle Body. I did this so I could see if the IAC motor was actuating properly, and more importantly returning to it's 'parked'position (not remaining open). I turn on the ignition, and hit the 'run' switch (when you can hear the fuel pump and IAC motor actualizing), and the throttle butterfly (whatever you want to call it), moved and returned home properly.


Coil Relocation to Left side of motor


Ignition Relocation to Left side of Motor. This is where 'the bolt' gave me so much shit. you can see, trying to thread a tiny bolt there is a PITA. and retrieving it after it falls out of your socket is another shit sammich


Fuel Line disconnect for tank raise / to work on wire tuck


IAC Connection (aforementioned Rogue harness)


Preliminary Wire Tuck


Main Fuse on the left side


Entering Diagnostic mode after establishing the IAC connection


Trouble Code = Idle Air Control


After firing up the bike after connecting the IAC. Perfect Idle. Throwing no codes!


Next up, installing the XiED fuel enrichment by-pass (1 per cylinder)


Line where XiED will connect to/integrate to, going to the front O2 sensor


Front O2 Sensor


All done (sans some small clean up on the wire tuck...just cosmetic)

[Dayze]

Next up on my 'shit to do' list, is lowering the ear shocks, and front springs by about 1.5 - 2".
Should be MUCH less involved lol.

[seaofred]

Ok, now I believe it happened... Looks great!

[vailpass]

Originally Posted by Dayze

Next up on my 'shit to do' list, is lowering the ear shocks, and front shocks by about 1.5 - 2".
Should be MUCH less involved lol.

Sweet ass bike Dayze. Do you ever plan to ride it?

[TheUte]

Nice work. Pictures just don't do that paint justice, I love it.

Man, I want to ride.