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Old 02-19-2015, 07:32 PM  
Holladay Holladay is offline
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Hot Water Heaters
(an aside, 4 people in the house and 2 of which are teenagers) I have 2x50 gal propane hot water heaters, 10 years old, set up in line. The thought was that have one (the last in line) fairly hot, and the first just warm. When the needed, I could turn up the first to hot as well...ie when I wanted to fill the big bath tub.

The first in line has stopped working. I can't /won't light. So we have been working on just one. Which is OK because we have the other (last in line) that works fine.

I am looking at upgrading the tanks. I saw online to have 1 propane tank coupled with a "tankless" hot water source. I don't know the price, setup requirements, cost etc.

I just want to have adequate hot water. Again, have two teenagers and a big bath tub that we don't use that much.

Should I just replace both 50 gal propane tanks, have a repairman come out to fix the first in line that doesn't work, or do the hybrid propane tank and a tankless source?

Cost is an issue to a degree. Or the increased value to the house with a tankless?

Thanks
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Old 02-20-2015, 05:11 PM   #61
A Salt Weapon A Salt Weapon is offline
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Ahh, that makes sense. We kind of take clean water for granted up here.
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Old 02-21-2015, 09:37 AM   #62
A Salt Weapon A Salt Weapon is offline
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Also anyone that did put one in, don't forget the $300 tax credit.
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Old 02-21-2015, 01:11 PM   #63
SAUTO SAUTO is offline
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Well, we have extremely hard water here which plays hell on heaters. If you've ever tried to change an element in a heater that's full of sedement, you'd understand. And yes, most heaters carry a 6 year tank warranty and a life expectancy of 8-10 years. That's not me saying that, it's a well known fact in the industry
Our water is so bad that the last time I changedthe element it was bent straight up and twisted all around from the sediment build up.
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Old 02-21-2015, 01:13 PM   #64
SAUTO SAUTO is offline
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The inlet or outlet port on top of the heater is plugged up. This happens quite a bit. To fix it you need to cut the pipes just above the heater and knock out the build up with a screwdriver. It's probably in your best interest to call a pro in on this one
Why cut the pipes? Mine just screw on...
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Old 02-21-2015, 04:27 PM   #65
FlaChief58 FlaChief58 is offline
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Why cut the pipes? Mine just screw on...
I assumed his was hard piped.
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Old 02-21-2015, 04:31 PM   #66
FlaChief58 FlaChief58 is offline
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Our water is so bad that the last time I changedthe element it was bent straight up and twisted all around from the sediment build up.
Good times
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Old 02-21-2015, 05:27 PM   #67
Chief Roundup Chief Roundup is offline
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Originally Posted by Flachief58 View Post
Yes and with that size increase come a pretty hefty price increase. If you're thinking of replacing your water heater, do it before April 16th.

I'm not sure what your plumber friends have against tankless heaters. If you buy a good one sized to fit your needs and maintain it, they're great
The complaints I have heard are price, you don't ever really get your money back for the extra expense, maintenance increase, and inconsistent water temperature especially between the seasons. Evidently the temp difference in the incoming water in the winter time affects the outflow temp if you don't adjust the unit.
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Old 02-21-2015, 05:57 PM   #68
FlaChief58 FlaChief58 is offline
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The complaints I have heard are price, you don't ever really get your money back for the extra expense, maintenance increase, and inconsistent water temperature especially between the seasons. Evidently the temp difference in the incoming water in the winter time affects the outflow temp if you don't adjust the unit.
I get the price issue, but c'mon, complaining that you have to adjust the temp for the season?
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Old 02-21-2015, 06:11 PM   #69
'Hamas' Jenkins 'Hamas' Jenkins is offline
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Originally Posted by Flachief58 View Post
The inlet or outlet port on top of the heater is plugged up. This happens quite a bit. To fix it you need to cut the pipes just above the heater and knock out the build up with a screwdriver. It's probably in your best interest to call a pro in on this one
I assume if I did that I can just cut the pipe, replace the dip tube, and then affix the new pipe section to the old using flux and a butane torch, right?
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Old 02-21-2015, 06:16 PM   #70
FlaChief58 FlaChief58 is offline
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I assume if I did that I can just cut the pipe, replace the dip tube, and then affix the new pipe section to the old using flux and a butane torch, right?
Yes, just make sure you clean the fittings and pipe with sand cloth first, if you're not sure how to solder, youtube it first. You'll need to take the cold side fitting out to get to the dip tube
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Old 02-21-2015, 08:14 PM   #71
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Or use Sharkbite fittings...



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Old 02-21-2015, 08:35 PM   #72
'Hamas' Jenkins 'Hamas' Jenkins is offline
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Yes, just make sure you clean the fittings and pipe with sand cloth first, if you're not sure how to solder, youtube it first. You'll need to take the cold side fitting out to get to the dip tube
I've done plenty of soldering on electronics, but never a pipe.
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Old 02-21-2015, 08:48 PM   #73
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Old 02-22-2015, 06:21 AM   #74
FlaChief58 FlaChief58 is offline
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As much as I don't like using sharkbites, they are a good option for the do it yourselfer
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Old 02-23-2015, 12:30 AM   #75
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As a plumber, I don't hate sharkbites they do have places they're good for. As long as you're not burying it in a wall you're probably fine. I even used two in my place, the nice thing about them is that a valve will spin. I put an extra hose bib on my house that goes into the bathroom closet where I installed my tankless, I used two sharkbite valves (hot and cold) to the bib so that I can close the hot and spin it towards the wall, this keeps the kids from opening it or it accidentally opening and creating a cross connect. When I want hot water outside I can close the cold valve, spin the hot away from the wall and open it, now the garden hose can have hot water.
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