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01-13-2018, 01:42 PM | #16 |
"I'm with you fellers"
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Our well is 440' deep and cost $22,000 completely done with pump and well house. Dont forget the cost of getting the water to your house (be sure they run 2"line, they can go smaller but it effects volume/pressure) at the house, outdoor hydrants, (put them in now when its cheapest) and a water softener (you'll need one) and a whole house water filter, (you'll need one)
New EPA rules have spiked the cost of septic systems. Ours was for 5 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms and cost $12.500 its a good idea to have a drain put going into the line for an rv pad too with water hydrant and electricity. Cheapest time to do it and its nice too hook up your rv for company, etc...
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01-13-2018, 01:59 PM | #17 | |
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Comanche +1!!!
May I add Do not use a garbage disposal or allow cooking oils, borax, bleach, etc into a septic system. They do not play well. Do give it a monthly cocktail, and check the silt levels yourself, don't just call on time alone. I had new neighbors that built and they used a back hoe on a bobcat to DIY a system. They had the company's engineer it and inspect it as they went. Said they saved big bucks and were able to use better materials. too. It was a big house. If you have lots of space and you can pass permitting a oxidizing pond may be worth looking into. My friends in Smithville area have one and says the water is very clean and no issues what so ever. Once again your location may not allow this. Ecstatics can be an issue for some. His is shielded from the house by evergreens. You'd never know it was there. Given my choice I would look at gray water system fed to a septic tank feeding an oxidizing pond and utilizing composting toilets. (skip the laterals altogether). When everything is engineered properly you should only have to deal with the composters twice a year. (if you keep poop knives in the bath, more often) and you could install flushers but why? I looked at a house that is set up with small septic/ laterals system as a pond was not an option due to forestation. He told me he couldn't get past county without one. All that goes into his septic is gray water.... that simply needs a filtration system( sand) to be used for anything but drinking. I would like to know since you are not introducing fecal matter into the system if there is any risk involved with this design. (Need for fencing) You could just run the gray water to the sand and into a hole filled with gravel but the pond makes you legal. My old house had a rainwater system under the patio for the barn and freeze-proof faucets and the garden, a well water supply for utility sinks, laundry, and showers and city water for drinking and cooking. The well water was treated for odor but I was required to connect to expensive Raymore water, so I did Quote:
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01-13-2018, 02:05 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
We do not have a well, but my brother does, and he had radon in his water and had to mitigate this as well.
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01-13-2018, 02:14 PM | #19 | |
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Make sure you have the capacity for your sprinkler system if you’re going to do it. We don’t have the luxury of living in a Rainforest here. Get as big of septic tank as you can get away with and as much leech line as you can get away with. Make sure the contractor follows alll the rules. I think you’re supposed to have an epa certification to install one. Maybe it is KDHE here but I think it is EPA. Just make sure you can get the local permits. “Here”. USDA cost shares septic if it is in the country. I’m sure it is to prevent slapsticks with a backhoe from doing it themselves. Call your local Usda service center and see if there is any cost share available for septic. I cannot reiterate enough. Get your well as far away from septic as you can. You know. For the poop |
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01-13-2018, 02:21 PM | #20 | |
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Quote:
***edit*** We do not need a heated well house as we put the pressure tank in the house. That was always a pain in the winter when we were on the shared well. Last edited by HemiEd; 01-13-2018 at 02:28 PM.. |
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01-13-2018, 02:52 PM | #21 |
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Regarding septic tanks, I'm not sure what the rules are in Missouri but in Kansas you have to contact your County Health Department to determine whether you can put in a septic tank with leach field or are required to go with a lagoon. This would be dependent upon a percolation test or, in many cases, the County will simply know based on soil type whether a septic tank/leach field will work. The total lenght of your laterals will be dependent on the size of your house, number of bedrooms, etc.
You probably already know but don't drill your well near the septic system for obvious reasons. |
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01-13-2018, 03:06 PM | #22 | |
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I'm used to seeing things like this. for drop in pumps. not this I think I can understand if you have a remote location you want the pump as close to the source but ant other reasons ???
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01-13-2018, 03:12 PM | #23 |
Life is changing..
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I don't have much to add to this thread. I just want to say that it looks like this thread will be one of those that always manages to stay towards the top of the front page without actually having that many posts on it.
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01-13-2018, 03:13 PM | #24 |
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Thanks for all the info guys.
Dad and I are gonna go out and look at the property here in a bit and get his thoughts on it so I'll be sure and share. |
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01-13-2018, 05:54 PM | #25 |
He's Mahomie!
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01-13-2018, 09:09 PM | #26 |
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Location: Ozarks
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01-13-2018, 11:47 PM | #27 | |
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Location: Springfield, MO
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Quote:
Well must be at least 100 feet from septic regardless of slope. Find out where neighbors septic is as well as your own. With 15 acres, you should have no problem placing septic & well properly. I second the quality of work from the boys out of Crane. PM me if you want a name & details why I think they are good. Do NOT forget about county permits & zoning. Greene is serious. Check topo maps & the assessors GIS website for sink holes. That's all off the top of my head. |
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01-13-2018, 11:54 PM | #28 |
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If you do sell your house be sure to invest some of that money into some Club Level CHIEFS Season Tickets for the whole family!
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01-23-2018, 07:16 AM | #29 | |
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Location: Ozarks
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I didn't know exactly where the lid was, but started digging. Much to my pleasant surprise, we have a concrete tank. I fully expected it to be like most other things down here and be disappointed with a plastic tank. Had it pumped out yesterday and learned a lot. DO NOT USE RIDX OR BAKERS YEAST as I had been told. You want the solids to drop to the bottom instead of being broken down to run in your lateral fields that could plug them up. I did a google search to confirm and it sure seems to be true. |
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01-23-2018, 07:54 AM | #30 | |
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So what you're saying is that Rid Ex makes the "Scum" become so much more massive that it starts pumping scum to the laterals? That would be 3 foot of scum or does it emulsify into the liduids and go out that way?. Even if you do yearly inspections I don't think you would see that. Good info.
I never put any thing in mine when I has one, laundry, shower water was not put into septic ever. but it was just me and occasional guests for 7 years. Buyers had it checked and still didn't need service. Pays to shit at work or the bar. Quote:
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