Removing a stripped bolt

[cookster50]

I was working on changing an intake manifold gasket on a 2000 Saturn SL1 and in the process of trying to loosen one of the power steering pump bolts I started to strip it. I tried a Gator Grip, which is a piece of junk and did no good. I also tried some sears bolt extractors but the one that fits on isn't tight enough and the next size down I can't get to fit on. Anyone have any ideas on how I can get this thing removed? I have hardly any room to work in btw, not even enough to be able to hammer a smaller sized socket on it.

[SAUTO]

Originally Posted by cookster50

No, it is one of the ones below and to the right of the pulley. I used a "good" sears craftsman socket to start with. I think using the larger bolt extractor has pretty much rounded it too much for a socket to work anymore.

theres a reason i dont use craftsman around here. i actually have a set of snap on sockets that i dont use EVER unless i run into what has happened to you. i also have a set that i abuse on a daily basis. damn man thats a tough situation. the welder idea sounds like a good bet. that has worked many times for us.

[Groves]

a) I'm sure you've made sure you're removing a right hand thread.

b) Keep up the PB Blaster

c) Use a 6point socket

d) you can use heat and don't be afraid to hammer it like a nail to loosen things up. Not sure you have room for that.

e) welding another nut on is a very good final solution

f) If nothing else, can you just shear the bolt head off with a cold chisel and remove the part? This might leave you with more exposed bolt shaft to grip for removal.

g) always pre coat your hands with dawn dishwashing liquid. Then when they get greasy, it washes right off afterwards.

[stlchiefs]

Interesting info I saw today that is applicable to what people are offering here:

Removing Rusted Bolts

Mike Cyr, of Presque Isle, Maine, wrote to me about an email he'd
received from a relative. Evidently there was a study done by
Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue. The story
looked at the different penetrating oils to see which one did the
best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of
torque required to loosen the bolt once treated. If the study was
scientifically accurate, it turns out a home brew works best!
Here's the summary of the test results:

Penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

The ATF is an acronym for automatic transmission fluid. You can
readily get acetone and ATF, so mix some yourself and see if you
can get the same results. Thanks for sharing this, Mike!

This comes from a cool newsletter that I recently signed up for. Some people around here might find it helpful as well: http://www.askthebuilder.com/Newsletter.shtml

[bevischief]

Whatever Bugeater says to do.

[Bwana]

[SAUTO]

Originally Posted by stlchiefs

Interesting info I saw today that is applicable to what people are offering here:

Removing Rusted Bolts

Mike Cyr, of Presque Isle, Maine, wrote to me about an email he'd
received from a relative. Evidently there was a study done by
Machinist's Workshop magazine in their April 2007 issue. The story
looked at the different penetrating oils to see which one did the
best job of removing a rusted bolt by measuring the pounds of
torque required to loosen the bolt once treated. If the study was
scientifically accurate, it turns out a home brew works best!
Here's the summary of the test results:

Penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

The ATF is an acronym for automatic transmission fluid. You can
readily get acetone and ATF, so mix some yourself and see if you
can get the same results. Thanks for sharing this, Mike!

This comes from a cool newsletter that I recently signed up for. Some people around here might find it helpful as well: http://www.askthebuilder.com/Newsletter.shtml

kroil is expensive but i keep a couple of cans around at all times, also have some gibbs, works great for guns also
Posted via Mobile Device

[boogblaster]

tranny fluid works good give it time to penatrate also if you can hit the head with a punch it might help to loosen then use lockin pliers or plummer pliers .. if possible puttin a little heat from a torch helps too ...

[SLAG]

Originally Posted by Groves

a) I'm sure you've made sure you're removing a right hand thread.

b) Keep up the PB Blaster

c) Use a 6point socket

d) you can use heat and don't be afraid to hammer it like a nail to loosen things up. Not sure you have room for that.

e) welding another nut on is a very good final solution

f) If nothing else, can you just shear the bolt head off with a cold chisel and remove the part? This might leave you with more exposed bolt shaft to grip for removal.

g) always pre coat your hands with dawn dishwashing liquid. Then when they get greasy, it washes right off afterwards.

These are good tips and I have had to do F my self and thats usually quicker when all else is failing