Home and Auto Mechanics/SAUTO I need some advice - Page 4

MTG#10 · 10:02 AM

My daughter has a 2006 Mercury Milan (Ford Fusion) and since I bought it for her 6 months ago she's had trouble with the blower motor. Until yesterday when it wouldn't come on we just reached under the glove box smacked it with the palm of our hand and it would work fine but now that doesn't work.

I've read online that the resistors are notorious for going bad but a lot of people have problems with the motor as well so I decided to look at the motor itself first. The plug that plugs into the motor and the plug on the motor itself are both melted inside. I tried hot wiring the motor directly to the battery and the fan turned but it created a huge hot spark at the wire. Im guessing that's because I bypassed the resistor?

The damn plug was $30 and I'm waiting for the motor to arrive at O'reilly's which is another $70. When I replace these am I at risk of melting another motor plug because the resistor could be bad as well? Is there a way to test the resistor? The resistor is $170 so I'm hoping that isn't the culprit.

One more thing that gives me hope that it isnt the resistor is before going out completely the blower worked on all speeds.

El Jefe · 08-15-2018, 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bugeater

I'm no expert, but to me, this seems like an excessive amount of corrosion for an 8 year old pickup.

That's pretty typical for what we see up here after about 5years on our roadways. I'm sure you guys use Salt on your roads down there in the winter right? It is not uncommon for us to see 3-4 year old cars with wheel bearings like that, sometimes we spend more time cleaning the knuckle/housing up than we do knocking the bearing out. Ohio salts the road excessively and that's why everything in about 10 year is almost swiss cheese underneath.

**Bugeater** · 08-15-2018, 09:33 AM

They don't use salt anymore, they spray something on the roads now, I think it's worse than salt. As far as whether that is typical I don't know, but I can tell you my 2002 Grand Cherokee with 180k on it only has a fraction of the rust that truck has on it.

Anyway, I got the other side done, it was just as bad, but at least that horrendous noise is gone. It's like a brand new truck now.

**mikeyis4dcats.** · 08-15-2018, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bugeater

They don't use salt anymore, they spray something on the roads now, I think it's worse than salt. As far as whether that is typical I don't know, but I can tell you my 2002 Grand Cherokee with 180k on it only has a fraction of the rust that truck has on it.

Anyway, I got the other side done, it was just as bad, but at least that horrendous noise is gone. It's like a brand new truck now.

calcium chloride

**Bugeater** · 11-30-2018, 08:03 AM

This ****ing truck. Been losing brake pedal pressure lately, almost going to the floor. No obvious leaks anywhere up front or anywhere else, so I assume a wheel cylinder shit the bed in the back. Wrestled both the drums off yesterday and....everything is dry.

So I'm assuming master cylinder going bad...? Seems unusual as in I've hardly ever replaced a master cylinder in anything and they don't seem like they fail very often and it's not like the truck is that old. It does have ABS so there's a bunch extra gizmos on it I know nothing about.

Help?

**notorious** · 11-30-2018, 08:05 AM

Obviously needs the antifreeze topped off.

**Bugeater** · 11-30-2018, 08:10 AM

I'm thinking the goddamn truck has AIDS.

**SAUTO** · 11-30-2018, 08:56 AM

sounds like either a master cylinder or abs pump bypassing, you dont have a loose wheel bearing again do you?

**Bugeater** · 11-30-2018, 08:58 AM

wheel bearings are still good I think. Why would that affect the brakes anyway? It didn't before.

cooper barrett · 11-30-2018, 12:14 PM

Wheel bearing

**Buehler445** · 11-30-2018, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bugeater

This ****ing truck. Been losing brake pedal pressure lately, almost going to the floor. No obvious leaks anywhere up front or anywhere else, so I assume a wheel cylinder shit the bed in the back. Wrestled both the drums off yesterday and....everything is dry.

So I'm assuming master cylinder going bad...? Seems unusual as in I've hardly ever replaced a master cylinder in anything and they don't seem like they fail very often and it's not like the truck is that old. It does have ABS so there's a bunch extra gizmos on it I know nothing about.

Help?

Does the ABS light come on?

IIRC, it was ran in salt? It could have damaged the cylinder. On our hydraulic shit, if the rod can get corroded or rusty and hack up the seal when it cycles then it will bypass. That leaks out, but if the barrell is pitted, it can damage the seal on the piston and bypass. Or it could be the pump.

I have no idea, I've never seen those on newer brakes, but on our junky ass tandem gas trucks that we never use the master cylinder goes out every ****ing year.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bugeater

wheel bearings are still good I think. Why would that affect the brakes anyway? It didn't before.

We had a Chevy that had a wheel bearing go out and it damaged the ABS sensor. It was a ****ing one who sucks the penis to figure out and we had to take it to a mechanic better than us.

**Buehler445** · 11-30-2018, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooper barrett

Wheel bearing

Happens yo. It was a Chevy but we just had this on one of our pickups. It didn't get mushy, but it cycled the ABS and was a pain in the cock to drive.

LiveSteam · 11-30-2018, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bugeater

This ****ing truck. Been losing brake pedal pressure lately, almost going to the floor. No obvious leaks anywhere up front or anywhere else, so I assume a wheel cylinder shit the bed in the back. Wrestled both the drums off yesterday and....everything is dry.

So I'm assuming master cylinder going bad...? Seems unusual as in I've hardly ever replaced a master cylinder in anything and they don't seem like they fail very often and it's not like the truck is that old. It does have ABS so there's a bunch extra gizmos on it I know nothing about.

Help?

Just replaced the f-250 master cylinder. Was doing the exact same thing.. only it had 300,000 miles on it.

**Bugeater** · 11-30-2018, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buehler445

Does the ABS light come on?

IIRC, it was ran in salt? It could have damaged the cylinder. On our hydraulic shit, if the rod can get corroded or rusty and hack up the seal when it cycles then it will bypass. That leaks out, but if the barrell is pitted, it can damage the seal on the piston and bypass. Or it could be the pump.

I have no idea, I've never seen those on newer brakes, but on our junky ass tandem gas trucks that we never use the master cylinder goes out every ****ing year.

We had a Chevy that had a wheel bearing go out and it damaged the ABS sensor. It was a ****ing one who sucks the penis to figure out and we had to take it to a mechanic better than us.

No lights on yet, which is surprising since the pedal seems like it's going almost all the way to the floor. I'm going to replace the wheel cylinders on the rear since I have it tore apart anyway and they usually are what takes out the rear brakes. Thing does have over 100k on it now so they're probably due to take a shit.

As far as the wheel bearings, I replaced the hubs a while back, they weren't loose just noisy as hell. I'm guessing that was SAUTO ****ing with me on that one.

**Bugeater** · 11-30-2018, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LiveSteam

Just replaced the f-250 master cylinder. Was doing the exact same thing.. only it had 300,000 miles on it.

Well this one has 1/3 the mileage and is 1/3 the age. I don't recall the last time I had a master cylinder go bad, if I ever have at all. Which is kinda surprising with the parade of junkers I've owned over the years.

**Buehler445** · 11-30-2018, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bugeater

No lights on yet, which is surprising since the pedal seems like it's going almost all the way to the floor. I'm going to replace the wheel cylinders on the rear since I have it tore apart anyway and they usually are what takes out the rear brakes. Thing does have over 100k on it now so they're probably due to take a shit.

As far as the wheel bearings, I replaced the hubs a while back, they weren't loose just noisy as hell. I'm guessing that was SAUTO ****ing with me on that one.

Yeah, I'm no brake guy but the wheel bearing thing just happened to us this summer. It wasn't the same symptoms, but that ABS shit can do weird shit. And that sensor (on Chevys) are CRAMMED in there.

Wouldn't hurt to give it a spin while its up.

08-11-2018, 09:54 AM
MTG#10 Mammoth penis Join Date: May 2006 Location: Springfield Casino cash: $7534386	Mechanics/SAUTO I need some advice My daughter has a 2006 Mercury Milan (Ford Fusion) and since I bought it for her 6 months ago she's had trouble with the blower motor. Until yesterday when it wouldn't come on we just reached under the glove box smacked it with the palm of our hand and it would work fine but now that doesn't work. I've read online that the resistors are notorious for going bad but a lot of people have problems with the motor as well so I decided to look at the motor itself first. The plug that plugs into the motor and the plug on the motor itself are both melted inside. I tried hot wiring the motor directly to the battery and the fan turned but it created a huge hot spark at the wire. Im guessing that's because I bypassed the resistor? The damn plug was $30 and I'm waiting for the motor to arrive at O'reilly's which is another $70. When I replace these am I at risk of melting another motor plug because the resistor could be bad as well? Is there a way to test the resistor? The resistor is $170 so I'm hoping that isn't the culprit. One more thing that gives me hope that it isnt the resistor is before going out completely the blower worked on all speeds. Last edited by MTG#10; 08-11-2018 at 10:02 AM..
Posts: 11,429

08-15-2018, 09:33 AM	#47
Bugeater The Maintenance Guy Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Renovated Bugeater Estate Casino cash: $6252680	They don't use salt anymore, they spray something on the roads now, I think it's worse than salt. As far as whether that is typical I don't know, but I can tell you my 2002 Grand Cherokee with 180k on it only has a fraction of the rust that truck has on it. Anyway, I got the other side done, it was just as bad, but at least that horrendous noise is gone. It's like a brand new truck now.
Posts: 70,443

11-30-2018, 08:03 AM	#49
Bugeater The Maintenance Guy Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Renovated Bugeater Estate Casino cash: $6252680	This ****ing truck. Been losing brake pedal pressure lately, almost going to the floor. No obvious leaks anywhere up front or anywhere else, so I assume a wheel cylinder shit the bed in the back. Wrestled both the drums off yesterday and....everything is dry. So I'm assuming master cylinder going bad...? Seems unusual as in I've hardly ever replaced a master cylinder in anything and they don't seem like they fail very often and it's not like the truck is that old. It does have ABS so there's a bunch extra gizmos on it I know nothing about. Help?
Posts: 70,443

11-30-2018, 08:05 AM	#50
notorious Supporter Join Date: May 2005 Location: Who knows? Casino cash: $2955884	Obviously needs the antifreeze topped off.
Posts: 83,269

11-30-2018, 08:10 AM	#51
Bugeater The Maintenance Guy Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Renovated Bugeater Estate Casino cash: $6252680	I'm thinking the goddamn truck has AIDS.
Posts: 70,443

11-30-2018, 08:56 AM	#52
SAUTO Shit Join Date: Jun 2008 Casino cash: $10039067	sounds like either a master cylinder or abs pump bypassing, you dont have a loose wheel bearing again do you?
Posts: 55,715

11-30-2018, 08:58 AM	#53
Bugeater The Maintenance Guy Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Renovated Bugeater Estate Casino cash: $6252680	wheel bearings are still good I think. Why would that affect the brakes anyway? It didn't before.
Posts: 70,443

11-30-2018, 12:14 PM	#54
cooper barrett MVP Join Date: Aug 2017 Casino cash: $10000400	Wheel bearing __________________
Posts: 13,669