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DJ's left nut 02-01-2017 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notorious (Post 12721664)
You basically water popped the grain.

150 grit is more than enough for most woods. If you want to get Maple or Hickory to stain dark, a mixture of 50/50 denatured alcohol and water will do the trick. Mix it, spray it on (after sanding), and it should be dry in 1/2 hour and ready for stain.

Water popping before stain will allow it to penetrate across the entire board instead of just the grain. Put a heavy sealer and a couple coats of good finish (I use only floor finish, obviously) and you will have a perfectly smooth finished piece that is well protected.

I usually don't like to pop oak too hard because the grain is so open. I usually mix more alcohol in to minimize opening up the grain too much. If you open the grain too much you will get what's called bleedback and the product will look like shit.

Yeah but I...uh...use minwax. Poorly.

Buzz 02-01-2017 07:35 PM

Hey notorious, I need to rip out the carpet in the basement and replace, son ruined it when he moved down there before moving out. What's a good cheap replacement for DIY, laminate? and if so what would you recommend?

jspchief 02-01-2017 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJ's left nut (Post 12721178)
I grabbed a Freud premier fusion and like it a lot. It's on par with the Forrest woodworker II models but I really wanted to see how those triple grind teeth worked for an all-purpose blade. So far I'm really impressed.

The WWII is probably a more precise blade but more expensive and I didn't know if it would have as much versatility.

I ended up splurging on the the woodworker 2 for a project with a bunch of 8/4 maple that I just couldn't cut without burning. It's a great blade. That was a long time ago though, so I don't know what kind of competition is out there now.

DJ's left nut 02-01-2017 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jspchief (Post 12721688)
I ended up splurging on the the woodworker 2 for a project with a bunch of 8/4 maple that I just couldn't cut without burning. It's a great blade. That was a long time ago though, so I don't know what kind of competition is out there now.

Burning? That's what they make sandpaper for, man...

#tipsfromashitcraftsman

I've switched to a thin kerf blad as well. Little less waste and I think the lighter blade gives you just a little more oomph so it could save a little burning there. They've gotten so good at the vibration reduction on these newer blade designs that I really can't see a downside. You're not getting any deflection on a quality thin-kerf.

jspchief 02-01-2017 07:44 PM

I think if I had it to do all over again, I'd concentrate much more on hand tools. If I ever find the time to really get back into it, my focus will be hand tools and top notch sharpening. I've got a few old Stanley planes to restore if it ever happens.

notorious 02-01-2017 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buzz (Post 12721686)
Hey notorious, I need to rip out the carpet in the basement and replace, son ruined it when he moved down there before moving out. What's a good cheap replacement for DIY, laminate? and if so what would you recommend?

All laminate is easy anymore. I can't believe some places charge 2.5-3/ft to install. I can do about 100-150 ft/hour, so that would be highway robbery.


I have installed Dupont and Pergo before, but it's been years. The real stuff keeps me extremely busy. Be careful when it comes to the light colored laminate as it will show little black lines (dirt and moisture) between each board after a year or so. Same goes with the dark stuff with dust.

Hog's Gone Fishin 02-01-2017 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notorious (Post 12721702)
All laminate is easy anymore. I can't believe some places charge 2.5-3/ft to install. I can do about 100-150 ft/hour, so that would be highway robbery.


I have installed Dupont and Pergo before, but it's been years. The real stuff keeps me extremely busy. Be careful when it comes to the light colored laminate as it will show little black lines (dirt and moisture) between each board after a year or so. Same goes with the dark stuff with dust.

We've gotten the hell away from laminate in rentals and have started using that PVC tile that looks like woodgrain. I don't know what its called but water / moisture doesn't affect it like laminate.

Buzz 02-01-2017 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hog Farmer (Post 12721717)
We've gotten the hell away from laminate in rentals and have started using that PVC tile that looks like woodgrain. I don't know what its called but water / moisture doesn't affect it like laminate.


Tell me more, how do you lay it down?

Buzz 02-01-2017 08:12 PM

I could also do the kitchen, bathroom and two landing entry ways.

SAUTO 02-01-2017 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jspchief (Post 12721695)
I think if I had it to do all over again, I'd concentrate much more on hand tools. If I ever find the time to really get back into it, my focus will be hand tools and top notch sharpening. I've got a few old Stanley planes to restore if it ever happens.

I've got a bunch of old levels hanging in the wall in my living room.

Someone put them together as art and it is somewhat in the shape of a Chevy emblem and fits behind the loveseat perfectly. It's pretty ****ing cool

DJ's left nut 02-01-2017 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hog Farmer (Post 12721717)
We've gotten the hell away from laminate in rentals and have started using that PVC tile that looks like woodgrain. I don't know what its called but water / moisture doesn't affect it like laminate.

Putting that in my bathroom with heated tile.

It really does look outstanding. It doesn't replicate hardwood quite as well as laminate but in a lot of ways it looks better. I really am impressed by how far they've come in just the last few years with those.

notorious 02-01-2017 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hog Farmer (Post 12721717)
We've gotten the hell away from laminate in rentals and have started using that PVC tile that looks like woodgrain. I don't know what its called but water / moisture doesn't affect it like laminate.

Yep.


LVT is the way to go. You can install it on the bottom of a pool ffs.

Mike in SW-MO 02-01-2017 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notorious (Post 12721671)
Water/Oil Emulsified - Glitza Infinity II

Oil - Primero Poloplaz. Stay the **** away from Minwax finish. Their stain is excellent, but finish is pure SHIT.

Water- Don't like any of it, but Pallman 96x is the best of the worst. Bona is okay, too.

Sealer- Pro Finisher Universal Sealer. Varathane makes it, and a normal dude can buy it at Menards


I don't know if you can find the pro finishes at a store.

Thanks. I knew somebody would have some experience.

Buehler445 02-01-2017 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JASONSAUTO (Post 12721220)
guarantee that is not you.

He is right, it's me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buzz (Post 12721686)
Hey notorious, I need to rip out the carpet in the basement and replace, son ruined it when he moved down there before moving out. What's a good cheap replacement for DIY, laminate? and if so what would you recommend?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hog Farmer (Post 12721717)
We've gotten the hell away from laminate in rentals and have started using that PVC tile that looks like woodgrain. I don't know what its called but water / moisture doesn't affect it like laminate.

I'll throw in a +1. Buddy of mine installed it in a big area of his house. It is the shit and WAAAAAAAAY cheaper than what I put in my kitchen. Snaps together like laminate. It was hell on his saw blade (all PVC is).

I wish I had done what he did. Christ.

Bugeater 02-01-2017 09:11 PM

I'm using the engineered vinyl in my kitchen as well, but it has a tile look vs the wood look.


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