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Old 01-31-2017, 09:01 PM  
HemiEd HemiEd is offline
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Woodworking

I don't recall seeing anything on here about the hobby. Do you do it? Have any interest? Tools? Have you made anything? Do you want to learn?

With the recent developments on the Planet, it got me thinking, what can I do to contribute and support the new effort?

I had no problem with any of the old guard and want to support the effort to make Chiefs Planet great again with the regime.


They aren't teaching vocational training in high school anymore, but maybe we can provide a venue here to learn woodworking?

There is a handyman mega thread, but this deserves it's own thread if we are going to accomplish something.

When I went to Junior high school we had woodworking class and I have always loved it. Finally, upon retirement, I have been able to set up a nice woodwork shop. I can go from station to station and perform the particular task, planing, jointer, sander, router table, radial arm, table and band saw.

I am currently on my fifth cedar chest this winter. Each one has gotten much easier as I have learned.

We have a cedar mill about ten miles away so it has been very instrumental in the effort as raw material is the main ingredient. It is dirt cheap at the mill and I have been buying 1.1 inch thick by 52 long by 4.25 wide boards and gluing them together.

What are you working on?
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:22 PM   #106
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I'm using the engineered vinyl in my kitchen as well, but it has a tile look vs the wood look.

Show me the way, what are you going with? Sorry, didn't mean to derail the thread. I'm sure it will get back on track.
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:36 PM   #107
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Originally Posted by D2112 View Post
Nice work Ed!! I haven't done that stuff since wood shop in junior high back in the (gulp) 70's
Same here.
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:36 PM   #108
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Show me the way, what are you going with? Sorry, didn't mean to derail the thread. I'm sure it will get back on track.
http://www.efloors.com/usfloors-core...alog_53430.htm
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Old 02-02-2017, 06:08 AM   #109
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Originally Posted by DJ's left nut View Post
That's really what's kept me from doing any kind of involved hardwood work.

I'm just not good at 'merging' stock. I'm sure it has a name, but when it's time to glue some 2x6s together to form a table-top and then smooth it all out to give it a finished look, I always end up with something with too many high spots or grooves or just an otherwise sloppy look.

Part of the problem is a lack of good bar clamps. Jet makes the top of the line ones and on Black Friday you can find the rare discount on them, but man alive they're expensive. So I make due with mediocre pipe clamps and they just don't hold the pieces together well enough. My planer's a 12 inch Porter Cable and it's a nice machine but I was an idiot and ran a piece with nails in it through there without realizing it and took chunks out of my blades so invariably, when I need it, it's not an option. I guess I could just loosen and offset the blades to cover for the chunks but again, lazy and stupid.

.
Do you use biscuits or dowels when merging the stock? I bought a dowel jig and use three spaced evenly and it seems to do the trick. I bought some pretty good long clamps, two 24s and two 36s that have been great. Believe it or not, Walmart has a pretty good little clamp for the small stuff for about three dollars and I have about a dozen of those. I will end up with 10 or so clamps on a piece once it is glued up. Here is a picture with a few clamps on but many more were put on.

My planer is a Dewalt and it says the blades can be reversed. I haven't had to do it yet but the white oak is sure making me think about it.
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:31 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HemiEd View Post
Do you use biscuits or dowels when merging the stock? I bought a dowel jig and use three spaced evenly and it seems to do the trick. I bought some pretty good long clamps, two 24s and two 36s that have been great. Believe it or not, Walmart has a pretty good little clamp for the small stuff for about three dollars and I have about a dozen of those. I will end up with 10 or so clamps on a piece once it is glued up. Here is a picture with a few clamps on but many more were put on.

My planer is a Dewalt and it says the blades can be reversed. I haven't had to do it yet but the white oak is sure making me think about it.
Dowels but I don't have a jig or anything; I put them on the press and put a stop in there for depth.

I should just spend a few bucks on a biscuit joiner; I've used one a handful of times and have always been impressed by the results.

Your clamp pattern is useful there, as is the idea of using scrap to form an 'edge' on the ends. I try to do something similar but it's more scattershot. I should probably just get more pipe clamps so I can get a better hold. I don't have a good reason not to; my new bench has a 4x6 work surface so I have plenty of room to operate, especially as my table saw has a nice extension table and my assembly table is my outfeed table so I can 'borrow' space from the cast-iron top on the saw or even the extension table as needed.

I have far more shop/tool than I have the skill for is the bottom line and all I can do to address that is keep failing forward. I was looking to make some mobile tool tables (want to build a new rolling table with folding sides for my slider, for instance) and my buddy just looks at me like I'm an idiot and says "guys with 800 sq foot workshops don't need mobile tools; design your space better".

Oh.
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:37 PM   #111
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I really want to build this:



Looks incredibly practical and since dust collection on any sliding compound miter saw is a trainwreck (unless you find one of those $1,000 jobs like a festool kapex or something), you can build a really nice hood for that rig, put plumbing through the back and run it straight into your dust collection ducts.

Sadly, it just keeps sliding down the project list (and since those Kreg stop kits are expensive as hell, my wife will most assuredly yell at me when I get the pieces for it).
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:48 PM   #112
HemiEd HemiEd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bogey
Love this thread. Thanks for starting it! I had a nice little wood shop for several years. Used to make furniture as a hobby. Love thewoodwhisperer website!
Do you have any pictures of the furniture you made? I will check out that site, thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by notorious View Post
You basically water popped the grain.

150 grit is more than enough for most woods. If you want to get Maple or Hickory to stain dark, a mixture of 50/50 denatured alcohol and water will do the trick. Mix it, spray it on (after sanding), and it should be dry in 1/2 hour and ready for stain.

Water popping before stain will allow it to penetrate across the entire board instead of just the grain. Put a heavy sealer and a couple coats of good finish (I use only floor finish, obviously) and you will have a perfectly smooth finished piece that is well protected.

I usually don't like to pop oak too hard because the grain is so open. I usually mix more alcohol in to minimize opening up the grain too much. If you open the grain too much you will get what's called bleedback and the product will look like shit.
I am confused as to what you mean about water popping the wood? The quote you quoted of me I had already put the polyurethane on and had used the 400.600 then 1000 prior to buffing it out. Kind of like color sanding and buffing out the paint on a car.

The white oak I bought is hard as heck and very tight compared to the cedar. The last real woodwork I have done was over 50 years ago in school and it was all mahogany.

Thanks for your input.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ's left nut View Post
Dowels but I don't have a jig or anything; I put them on the press and put a stop in there for depth.

I should just spend a few bucks on a biscuit joiner; I've used one a handful of times and have always been impressed by the results.

Your clamp pattern is useful there, as is the idea of using scrap to form an 'edge' on the ends. I try to do something similar but it's more scattershot. I should probably just get more pipe clamps so I can get a better hold. I don't have a good reason not to; my new bench has a 4x6 work surface so I have plenty of room to operate, especially as my table saw has a nice extension table and my assembly table is my outfeed table so I can 'borrow' space from the cast-iron top on the saw or even the extension table as needed.

I have far more shop/tool than I have the skill for is the bottom line and all I can do to address that is keep failing forward. I was looking to make some mobile tool tables (want to build a new rolling table with folding sides for my slider, for instance) and my buddy just looks at me like I'm an idiot and says "guys with 800 sq foot workshops don't need mobile tools; design your space better".

Oh.
You can work on your bench? WTF? Mine is always cluttered with the stuff I am working with.

What is the advantage of a biscuit over a dowel? They seem to have a following. The dowel jig I bought was only about $20 and is complete with bits/collars/adaptors for 1/4-5/16 and 3/8 dowels. I have used a bunch of 3/8.
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Old 02-02-2017, 01:00 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HemiEd View Post
You can work on your bench? WTF? Mine is always cluttered with the stuff I am working with.

What is the advantage of a biscuit over a dowel? They seem to have a following. The dowel jig I bought was only about $20 and is complete with bits/collars/adaptors for 1/4-5/16 and 3/8 dowels. I have used a bunch of 3/8.
My bench is in the center(ish) of the shop; pure assembly table. I have a conventional 3x14ish workbench run along the back wall where I have my cabinets, pegboards, etc.... That's what tends to turn into a cluster.

The assembly table stays fairly clean, especially with the drawers and cabinets I built into it; lots of storage space so I can just toss things in a drawer to keep them out of the way.

I don't know what the advantage would be but I suspect there's a little more give there; biscuits don't have to be razor precise to provide solid alignment; the taper and roundness allows for a little play there.

Probably just a margin for error thing. And a 'jig vs. joiner' thing; the joiners really are quick; line the tab in the center of the fence with your mark, push in once, move onto the next mark.

EDIT: Rockler's take on it -- http://www.rockler.com/how-to/doweli...iscuit-joints/
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Old 02-02-2017, 01:20 PM   #114
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That is an interesting article. I am mainly using the dowels for alignment and they seem to be pretty good at that. Like they said, the initial investment is less.

When gluing five boards up it can take a while! It is brutal on that white oak compared to the cedar.

Oh and I was just kidding on the bench thing, but it is a constant battle for sure. Sounds like you are set up well.
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Old 02-02-2017, 01:34 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HemiEd View Post
That is an interesting article. I am mainly using the dowels for alignment and they seem to be pretty good at that. Like they said, the initial investment is less.

When gluing five boards up it can take a while! It is brutal on that white oak compared to the cedar.
I figure a $70 harbor freight special will do the job in the near term if I get a joiner. A solid jig is in the 20-30 range and the joiner is another power tool so that's always fun. For just a few bucks more, it seems like you'd make back some of the expense in raw efficiency.

I'm going to build a little kitchen helper for the 3 year old in the near future (yeah, right) and I'm going to use knock down joinery with dowels for added stability against twisting. Shouldn't be terribly complicated when all is said and done.
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Old 02-02-2017, 04:56 PM   #116
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Originally Posted by HemiEd View Post
Do you have any pictures of the furniture you made? I will check out that site, thanks.

I am confused as to what you mean about water popping the wood? The quote you quoted of me I had already put the polyurethane on and had used the 400.600 then 1000 prior to buffing it out. Kind of like color sanding and buffing out the paint on a car.

The white oak I bought is hard as heck and very tight compared to the cedar. The last real woodwork I have done was over 50 years ago in school and it was all mahogany.

Thanks for your input.



You can work on your bench? WTF? Mine is always cluttered with the stuff I am working with.

What is the advantage of a biscuit over a dowel? They seem to have a following. The dowel jig I bought was only about $20 and is complete with bits/collars/adaptors for 1/4-5/16 and 3/8 dowels. I have used a bunch of 3/8.

Oh, the way I read it is that you were wetsanding the wood before stain, which wouldn't make any sense but I didn't want to be an asshole.
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Old 02-02-2017, 06:25 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ's left nut View Post
I figure a $70 harbor freight special will do the job in the near term if I get a joiner. A solid jig is in the 20-30 range and the joiner is another power tool so that's always fun. For just a few bucks more, it seems like you'd make back some of the expense in raw efficiency.
When you say joiner are you talking biscuit joiner?

I have the Porter cable 557 and while it's very nice, I'm not sure it's the type of tool where spending more gets you more. If I had it to do over, I might go with the cheapest one (something I rarely do with tools).
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Old 02-02-2017, 07:12 PM   #118
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Quote:
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When you say joiner are you talking biscuit joiner?

I have the Porter cable 557 and while it's very nice, I'm not sure it's the type of tool where spending more gets you more. If I had it to do over, I might go with the cheapest one (something I rarely do with tools).
Yeah.

That's why I'd just get the cheap-o from Harbor Freight. My $30 angle grinder from there grinds as well as the nicer ones I've used. My drill press and my dust collector work great as well (though the dust collector has been disassembled and re-engineered).

For certain things, they do just fine and at 1/2 to 1/3 the price in many cases.
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Old 02-02-2017, 07:15 PM   #119
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Originally Posted by DJ's left nut View Post
Yeah.

That's why I'd just get the cheap-o from Harbor Freight. My $30 angle grinder from there grinds as well as the nicer ones I've used. My drill press and my dust collector work great as well (though the dust collector has been disassembled and re-engineered).

For certain things, they do just fine and at 1/2 to 1/3 the price in many cases.
Just making sure you weren't considering the HF jointer.
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Old 02-02-2017, 07:21 PM   #120
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I like to build things out of wood, but I'm a shit finish carpenter. I've built some pine log beds with my brothers and build things out of old stuff more than the fine quality finished things I've seen from some of you over the years.

My power tools for woodwork are old and sad. I don't have half of what I need to do things the right way for finishing wood.

The coolest thing I've worked on was a project for a mentor...I helped him build a wooden canoe made of 1" strips of wood.

My next two planned projects are barn wood related. I plan to build a chandelier for our table and I'm debating between a design using old barn wood, making a shadow box with a flat, rough piece with wires hanging old jars over LED lights or one made with barn trolleys and a couple of old lanterns. Wiring them right is my biggest concern because I'm worse with electricity than fine cut corners.

I also am planning a "railroad cart" style table. I cut some large cat iron wheels off an old safe and want to built a barn wood coffee table out of that.

Additional projects I'd like to do include a free hanging mantle for a large bland wall made out of rough cut beams or old barn beams. I'm also planning to fire up the welder and do some shitty welding to make some 2-3' dinosaurs out of a big pile of old rust wrenches I've picked up along the way.


Maybe I'm just better at these projects because they're supposed to look like hell on the corners.
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