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Old 10-20-2014, 09:19 AM  
DaFace DaFace is offline
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Any plumbers around here?
After shutting off and blowing out my sprinkler system this weekend, the main valve where I shut off all water to the system appears to be leaking just a bit. There's a drain on the valve that I use to blow back into the house (from the outside) to make sure it's fully drained in the winter. Pics here and here.

It's leaking out of the drain - not around the handle or at either end - so I'm assuming that the valve itself is the problem. It's not leaking much - only about a half cup of water per day (though more could conceivably be hanging out in the pipes rather than draining out I suppose). The only sort of adjustment I can find is a nut that is used to attach the handle, but it doesn't seem to have any effect on the valve.

Is there something I'm missing on how to fix this, or am I basically just stuck having to replace the whole thing?
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:20 AM   #2
Simply Red Simply Red is offline
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your mom.
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:21 AM   #3
Simply Red Simply Red is offline
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your mom.



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Old 10-20-2014, 09:24 AM   #4
Simply Red Simply Red is offline
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I'd bet $500 that at there have been at LEAST 50 posters in CP's past and present who were -or- are plumbers.
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:25 AM   #5
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your mom.
this didn't seem very nice.
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:27 AM   #6
Simply Red Simply Red is offline
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& here he is.
Spoiler!
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:29 AM   #7
Simply Red Simply Red is offline
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this didn't seem very nice.
True - but I'd assume Daface knows I'm joking and that I'm being an idiot - generally he'll chuckle and I'll get the pass. And then he'll wind up still believing in his heart that I'm a nice & caring poster.
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:31 AM   #8
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The only way to repair a ball valve is to be able to take it apart and put new O-rings in the valve body. There should be threads on the drain, so that the water can be channeled outside or where ever a person wants the water to drain to.
Point being that you should be able to purchase a cap that you can screw on that drain and stop the leak. Water pressure usually runs right at 60 lbs, so it shouldn't cause you any problems by blocking the drain until you need to use it. If you can get a cap that has an o-ring in the end of the cap or at least use some Teflon tape on the threads before you put the cap on so that it doesn't want to leak around the threads.
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:37 AM   #9
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The only way to repair a ball valve is to be able to take it apart and put new O-rings in the valve body. There should be threads on the drain, so that the water can be channeled outside or where ever a person wants the water to drain to.
Point being that you should be able to purchase a cap that you can screw on that drain and stop the leak. Water pressure usually runs right at 60 lbs, so it shouldn't cause you any problems by blocking the drain until you need to use it. If you can get a cap that has an o-ring in the end of the cap or at least use some Teflon tape on the threads before you put the cap on so that it doesn't want to leak around the threads.
Yeah, I have a cap for it, but the problem is that I don't WANT the water to get past the drain. That leads outside to the rest of the sprinkler system and has a nice little U in there where water has a tendency of getting trapped, freezing and bursting in the winter (speaking from experience).

So it sounds like it's going to be easier to just replace the whole thing.
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:38 AM   #10
Dayze Dayze is offline
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".....I'm here to clean your pipes"
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:40 AM   #11
Simply Red Simply Red is offline
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:46 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by DaFace View Post
Yeah, I have a cap for it, but the problem is that I don't WANT the water to get past the drain. That leads outside to the rest of the sprinkler system and has a nice little U in there where water has a tendency of getting trapped, freezing and bursting in the winter (speaking from experience).

So it sounds like it's going to be easier to just replace the whole thing.
Ah ha. Yeah then you are most likely going to be better off replacing the valve. The pictures make it look as though you can cut the copper on either side and then unscrew the valve from the opposite side. Looks like it should be a fairly quick and easy swap.
Be sure to use the Teflon tape or paste on all the threads. Sometimes unlike metals don't want to seal up without a little help.
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:49 AM   #13
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Ah ha. Yeah then you are most likely going to be better off replacing the valve. The pictures make it look as though you can cut the copper on either side and then unscrew the valve from the opposite side. Looks like it should be a fairly quick and easy swap.
Be sure to use the Teflon tape or paste on all the threads. Sometimes unlike metals don't want to seal up without a little help.
Yeah, that's what I figured. Thanks for the input!
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:06 AM   #14
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Yeah, that's what I figured. Thanks for the input!
Np bud.

Let me know if I can field any other concerns you may have.

Thank you!
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