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Old 09-24-2004, 08:25 AM  
Iowanian Iowanian is offline
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Handy-Man Corner

I'm tired of bad Chiefs news.....


I thought it would be a good idea for a thread on the Handy-Man.

Do you have any Home remedies, gadgets you've made, advice on car repair, home maint, sollutions to kill weeds in your yard, bugs in your garden?

Use Coke to clean your batteries? That type of stuff.
Home made floor dry?
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Old 10-15-2004, 02:17 PM   #46
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a search of "winterizing boat" on howstuffworks.com
returned the following.........I still don't exactly understand some of the fogging....but I'm not an idiot, and can figure it out. thanks.

"Boat Winterizing

Outboard Motor & Fuel System

Fill the fuel tank(s) with non-oxygenated fuel and add the proper amount of fuel stabilizer to the gasoline. The stabilizer will prevent fuel decomposition and varnish from building up in the fuel system. Full fuel tanks prevent condensation from forming on the inside of the tanks. In addition, full fuel tanks pose less potential fire risk than tanks that are only partially full.

Start the motor and let it run for 15-20 minutes to ensure that the stabilized fuel has been distributed to all points in the system, including fuel lines, filters, carburetors, etc. This can be done in the driveway, using a set of muffs and a garden hose to supply water to the intakes, or during the last outing of the season.

While the motor is still running, fog the motor by spraying fogging oil into the air intakes on the carburetors or the EFI system. It may be necessary to remove the air box to access the carburetor throats. Some motors are equipped with fogging ports that make the fogging process much easier. The fogging oil puts a liberal coating of oil on the internal motor components and prevents corrosion. Refer to your owners manual for specific instructions on how to fog your particular motor. The motor will smoke profusely and want to stall while the fogging oil is being injected. A little extra throttle will ensure that the motor remains running until the fogging process is complete. Once complete, allow the motor to stall by continuing to inject the fogging oil. Depending upon the particular motor, it may be easier to perform the fogging by using multiple cans of fogging oil at the same time.

With the kill switch in the "off" position, turn the motor over a few seconds to remove any residual water from the water pump.

Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil directly into each cylinder for 3-4 seconds while turning the motor over by hand. This will distribute a light coat of oil onto the cylinder walls.

Replace the spark plugs and torque to proper specifications. Install new spark plugs after the first run in the spring to ensure the new plugs do not become fouled with fogging oil.

Drain and refill the lower unit lubricant. Replace the washers on all drain and vent plugs each time the lower unit is serviced. Inspect the drained oil for any signs of water intrusion or chunks of metal on the drain screw magnet. If gearcase work is needed, the time to address the problem is now, not in the spring. It is best to allow the motor to sit for a day or so after use to allow any air entrained in the lubricant to escape prior to servicing the lower unit. The entrained air gives the lower unit lubricant a "milky" appearance, that is often confused with water in the lubricant.

Check the oil reservoir(s) for sludge (a turkey baster works well) and fill the oil reservoir with fresh oil to prevent condensation during storage. If you own a 4 stroke motor, change the crankcase oil and filter at this time.

If the motor is equipped with power tilt and trim, check the fluid level in the pump and top off if necessary. Refer to your owners manual for specific instructions on how to check the pump fluid level. Apply a film of grease to the tilt/trim rams to prevent corrosion and pitting.

Remove propeller and check for fishing line or other foreign material around the prop shaft near the seals. Inspect the prop for any nicks or cracks. Again, now is the time to address these types of problems. Before replacing the prop, wipe the old grease from the shaft and apply new lubricant. Finally, replace the prop, thrust washers, etc, and torque to proper specification.

Lubricate all service points, including grease zerks, shift and throttle linkages, etc. Refer to your owners manual for specific lubrication points.

Finally, store motor in the "down" position. This will ensure all water is completely drained, and prevents water from collecting in the exhaust and prop area. Also, with the motor in the lowest position, the tilt/trim rams (if equipped) are retracted within the pump housing, preventing surface corrosion on metal that would otherwise be exposed.


Boat

Remove all electronics and store in a warm, dry area. Most electronic items come with a plastic carrying case. These cases make ideal storage containers and protect the electronics from damage.

Trolling motors should be removed and stored in a heated area. The powerful magnets in today's trolling motors can be damaged by freezing temperatures.

Remove all equipment and gear from the boat, including rods and tackle, anchors, ropes, etc. Check over all items for signs of wear or other defects, and repair or replace as necessary.

Check the water level in all batteries and bring all batteries up to a full state of charge. Clean and grease all battery connections to prevent corrosion. Ensure all switches are off or, better yet, disconnect all connections to the batteries. Cable ties can be used to keep all appropriate terminals together to ensure proper reconnection in the spring. If your boat is equipped with an appropriate on-board charging system, this can be left connected and on for the duration of storage. If not, check the batteries every couple of months, topping off the charge on each battery as necessary.

Check the boat's steering and electrical systems for problems or wear. Clean and lube the steering rams if equipped with mechanical steering. Hydraulic systems should be topped off and marine grease applied to the cylinder ram to prevent corrosion and pitting.

Vacuum the floor and all compartments to remove any spilled foodstuffs that could attract mice or other rodents. Fabric softener sheets, such as Bounce, placed in all storage compartments and around the floor of the boat is an effective method of repelling rodents.

Prop all storage compartments open slightly with a piece of styrofoam or something similar to ensure that air can circulate throughout the entire boat. In addition, containers of moisture absorber such as Sta-dri, available from most hardware stores, can be placed in the boat to absorb moisture and prevent mildew.

If your boat utilizes removable pedestals, such as the Springfield Taper-Lock or Swivl-Eze Wedge systems, apply a light coating of lubricant, such as Paraffin wax, to the plastic portion that fits into the seat base. This will allow for easy removal of the pedestals in the future.

Check all livewells, pumps, and hoses to be sure all water is removed from the system. This can be accomplished easily with the use of an air compressor. Another option is to flush the entire system with RV antifreeze.

If your boat is equipped with a speedometer and/or water pressure gauge, ensure all water is removed from the lines. Any remaining water can freeze and crack the lines.

Check and tighten all screws throughout the boat.

If the boat will be stored outdoors, remove the drain plug and store the boat with the bow elevated. This will allow any water that should enter the boat to be able to drain.

If the boat will be stored outdoors, place a plastic tarp over the boat cover, if equipped. This will keep stains from birds, leaves, etc. off the cover, and will allow for easy snow removal. Make sure the cover and/or tarp is supported so that water and snow cannot collect and pool.


Trailer

Remove, clean, and inspect the wheel bearings for signs of rust, pitting, etc. If the bearings are to be replaced, the bearings and races should be replaced as a set. The seals should be replaced each time the bearings are removed for inspection or replacement.

Rotate tires and check for proper inflation. This is typically 50 psi for trailer tires. Consult the sidewall of the tire for proper inflation pressure.

Inspect the trailer coupler and latch assembly. Replace worn or missing parts as needed.

Inspect the condition of the safety chains and all associated fasteners. Replace worn or missing parts as needed.

Check the operation/condition of all lights and wiring. Repair or replace as needed.

Inspect the winch strap, and replace if worn or torn.

Inspect all rollers/bunks, nuts, bolts and other hardware. Tighten or replace as necessary.

If the trailer is equipped with brakes, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir (if surge brakes). Also, check the condition of the pads and drums/rotors. Replace as needed.

Check the license plate for expiration dates, and renew as required.

If the boat will not have to be moved during storage, jack stands can be placed under the axles to remove the load from the bearings and tires.

If the boat will be stored outside, place a shield over the tires to protect them from the damaging UV rays of the sun, that deteriorates rubber compounds over time."
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Old 10-15-2004, 02:21 PM   #47
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With fall here, I thought I would pass this along. There is a lot of little fuzzy bastages looking for a new home to get out of the cold. TIP 1. Squirrels scamper into your home through the chimney. They hate the smell of aftershave so you can leave an open bottle in the fireplace grate with the flue open to drive them back out. TIP 2. Squirrels also can't stand the smell of ammonia. Pour a little into a dish and put that on the grate. (Open some windows so there is ventilation). TIP 3. Mice stay far away from mint. If you know where a mouse has entered the house, saturate a rag with peppermint oil and stuff it in the opening. TIP 4. Mix three tablespoons of peppermint soap in a spray bottle with 12 to 16 ounces of water. Then spritz it around openings and pipes. As a bonus, ants hate peppermint too, so you can take care of two pests with one squirt! TIP 5. Plant mint near entrances and borders, this is another good way to keep those little fuzzballs away.
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Old 10-15-2004, 02:26 PM   #48
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Ya know my house was always a mess, so I got married, then I found out she doesn't like to clean, so I got a cleaning lady!!!
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Old 05-12-2005, 11:27 AM   #49
Iowanian Iowanian is offline
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Glue residue removal.

OK.

Who has an idea how to remove dried "liquid nails" and glue?

The situation is, I put in a new tub surround, and must have exposed a little glue on the seams. Now, its discolored, and doesn't wipe off with cleaning.
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Old 05-12-2005, 11:30 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowanian
Glue residue removal.

OK.

Who has an idea how to remove dried "liquid nails" and glue?

The situation is, I put in a new tub surround, and must have exposed a little glue on the seams. Now, its discolored, and doesn't wipe off with cleaning.
I take it you can't trim it with a sharp knife?

You picked a bad adhesive to want to remove. That stuff is exactly what it sounds like. I don't have any decent answer for you either, other then trying to paint it with enamel model paint or something.
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Old 05-12-2005, 11:31 AM   #51
4th and Long 4th and Long is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowanian
Glue residue removal.

OK.

Who has an idea how to remove dried "liquid nails" and glue?

The situation is, I put in a new tub surround, and must have exposed a little glue on the seams. Now, its discolored, and doesn't wipe off with cleaning.
Ironically, Liquid Nails has the product you may need.

Adhesive & Caulk Remover (LN-595)



A unique gel formula that can be used to remove virtually all types of caulks and adhesives as well as paint removal. Cleans safely and effectively. Resealable cap keeps product fresh.

Key Features:

• No drip gel formula
• Quickly and easily removes wet/dry adhesives and caulks
• Safe and effective

Recommended For removing wet or dry construction adhesives or caulks, tool clean-up, and paint removal

NOT Recommended For vinyl surfaces, epoxy or silicone, plastic, painted surfaces, varnished surfaces.

Available Sizes: 6 fl. oz. (177 ml) squeeze tube

http://www.liquidnails.com/adhesives/ln-595.html
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Old 05-12-2005, 11:31 AM   #52
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I'm surprised gochiefs hasn't looked at this thread thinking it said "Man-Handy Corner"
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Old 05-12-2005, 11:39 AM   #53
Bwana Bwana is offline
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"I" you might try brake cleaner (or paint thinner) and a razor. Just do it slow and take off a little at a time.
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Old 05-12-2005, 11:42 AM   #54
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There's also this stuff called "Goof Off" and "Goo Gone". That stuff takes bubblegum out of carpet. I may very well work on liquid nails.
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Old 05-12-2005, 11:46 AM   #55
Bwana Bwana is offline
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Quote:
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There's also this stuff called "Goof Off" and "Goo Gone". That stuff takes bubblegum out of carpet. I may very well work on liquid nails.
I have used that in the past as well and it works great on some things, but not so well on others. I don't know if it would cut through LN.
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Old 05-12-2005, 11:47 AM   #56
Chest Rockwell Chest Rockwell is offline
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Patching Ceiling texture.
Anyone have experience with the "texture in a can" stuff? How well will it blend?
Unfortunately I do...I'll come clean, punched a hole in the low part of the basement cieling during a game last year. That'll happen.

Mine was a fairly small hole so I patched with one of those metal and mesh pre-made patches and textured with the can. Worked fairly well, though it took a couple of different applications as I was a bit tenative with it the first time (my "orange peel" texture is fairly fine, but I found it actually took a bigger application than I imagined to get right once it was knocked down) but was a bit difficult to get to spray straight up evenly. I'd reccomend doing some test runs on spare drywayll scraps if you've got any, or in an inconspicuous location to get the feel for what you need, texture wise.

Also made a hell of a mess, so make sure you've got plenty of drop cloth or newspaper down on anything REMOTELY near it (in the verticle position that can sputtered and spit like a first-time bukakke actress).

It was actually really easy to match, once you get the hang of it and looks great now that it's painted, couldn't even tell it's there. I'd reccomend
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Old 05-12-2005, 11:52 AM   #57
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My wife doesn't come anywhere near my "gear."

And judging by your avatar, she probably complains that it smells like fish....
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Old 05-12-2005, 12:00 PM   #58
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Unfortunately I do...I'll come clean, punched a hole in the low part of the basement cieling during a game last year. That'll happen.
Temper, Temper.
Quote:
Also made a hell of a mess, so make sure you've got plenty of drop cloth or newspaper down on anything REMOTELY near it (in the verticle position that can sputtered and spit like a first-time bukakke actress).
BWAAAAAAAHAHAHAAAA!!!!!!
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Old 05-12-2005, 12:52 PM   #59
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I might try the liquid nails stuff..........except it says "no plastic or vinyl"...what is a tub surround?

I've tried taking a razor knife to the stuff, but its in corners with seams(it was a 5 piece surround). I didn't have much luck.

Basically, I want to make it look a little better so it shows better. Hopefully soon, it will be someone else's problem.
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Old 05-12-2005, 01:03 PM   #60
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Is the stuff you used solvent based? If so,this stuff looks like it might work, if you can find it. Website doesn't link to retailers, but does have a sales contact email address that might be able to help.
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