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Originally Posted by Silock
I just put them in there for decoration. Not really worried if they die because of meds. It's just kind of a test run to see how well I can manage a little larger planted tank.
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Well you picked pretty hardy plants. Java moss spreads slowly but surely across just about everything and I couldn't kill the Hygro if I wanted to!
Just keep in mind that because you're successful with these two VERY hardy plants doesn't mean you're cut out for plant-keeping. It's been a lot of trial and error for me and a lot of the big box stores don't help because they sell a lot of plants that will NEVER survive fully-submerged no matter how much you baby them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silock
I'm not worried about the cycle starting right now, because the plants should be absorbing all the ammonia.
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In the end, cycling really doesn't matter for a QT since there's quite a few meds that would kill your nitrifying bacteria anyway. Just don't leave your plants in there too long!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silock
Light is a grow fluorescent from the pet store.
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Grow fluorescents a lot of times come in the range from 5000-5500K color temperature. They make for good supplementary lights (I have one 5500K T5) but for plants, the bulk of your light should be in the 6500K range (usually marketed as "full daylight"). I would check the Kelvin rating just to be sure.
The reasons for this are multiple but the basics have to do with the depth of light penetration and the amount of light output in the useable spectra - yellow/green output is largely useless to plants and can lead to algae problems.