Quote:
Originally Posted by JASONSAUTO
DJLN my buddy says that if you dont change the torque boxes and just cut around them for the floor it would probably be under a grand but if you want to change it all it would be quite a more. he says he could tell more if we had a couple pics.
it really also depends on their labor rate
|
Here's some photos:
Here's the full trunk view. I went at the right side because that's where almost all the rust was. Obviously it looks pretty awful because it's through that spatter paint and into the original red but if you look on the left there you can see that the pan itself wasn't really compromised, just a shitload of surface rust (though see at the top? Those two holes were painted over so this clearly isn't a new issue).
Here's just a shot on the part I've hit with the wheel:
See, you can see another spot that they'd painted over with a some pitting on the track. There's obviously a little more rust I'll need to get of there but again, the vast majority of it is pretty sound, even at the worst spot.
Finally here's some of that scalloping that's under the paint I was talking about
At some point water was getting in here worse/more often than it is now (the trunk seal is good; I think it's getting in at the glass or maybe even from underneath when I get spray up into those holes from the road). They painted it and covered it so I just had no idea. Structurally everything feels fine so I feel like if I can get the POR-15 patch kits and a new thing of spatter paint, I can clear the rust to stop the process, patch the floor to make it watertight back there again, put the POR down to prevent any additional rusting and then re-paint it and put in removable carpet panels to finish the look while also giving me the ability to monitor the floor pan going forward.