It's ok, but I'm not willing to bleach my hair first.

:LOL:

Well at the end you will have beer, but the quality will not be that great. I have watched these videos in the past, to me, there are just a few things that are simple fixes that he could do to result it a much better tasting beer.

Few notes:
Your equipment needs to be sanitized not sterilized. Sterilized is a much higher threshold than is needed.

That can he uses is the prehopped malt, which I have never used myself, but can only assume is not as fresh tasting as using actual hops. But again, I have never used. I have no idea if it gives you any flavor or aroma at all. I guess I just don't like the idea of not being able to control my hop additions.

Corn sugar as a large part of your fermentables is usually unwanted because it can produce a cidery kind of flavor to your beer. If you just use all malt it will result in a much better tasting beer.

I have no idea what that head adjunct stuff is. Never used it. The carapils is what I have always used to help with head retention.

If I remember right in the second video he lets it ferment at a very high temperature, 80 degrees or so? Bad news, this can throw all sorts of off-flavors. Behind sanitation, controlling fermentation temperatures is one of the most important aspects of brewing.

Again, the end result will be beer, but if you already have a taste for good beer, just doing it at a little higher quality will really make a big difference.

He said between 70-80 degrees. I think he mentioned being closer to the higher end of that range (78 degrees?). What temp do you think he should have used? I am assuming this also depends on the type of beer. Correct?

It does depend on the beer, but for the most part 65-68 degrees is pretty optimal for most ales. If you ferment that high (78 degrees), it will be faster, but depending on the yeast used, the off-flavors that will be thrown is pretty large; fusel alcohols and unwanted esters are the main ones. I have fermented high on accident a few time and know first hand how it changes the flavor.

I also can't remember how soon he bottles after taking it off the yeast, but if he says a week, just know that although the yeast may be done fermenting they still are not done doing there job. Leaving it on the yeast for just an extra week or so lets the yeast clean up after themselves and allows for a much cleaner tasting beer.

Sorry, but if you brew the way this guy on you tube did, your beer will be lousy. NEVER, EVER use sugar in the brew pot. It will make the beer cidery and hot tasting. This is an old Charlie Papazion thing, and it just is not done if you want good beer, period! There are times that you can add sugars to the fermenter, like maple syrup, but this guy should have used more extract, not sugar. You use sugar as a primer when you bottle it to get it carbonated, but that's it.

Yeast needs sugar, it "eats" it and produces ethyl alchohol as a by product. Sugar is too simple a molecule for the yeast. The more complex sugars in the extract derived from malted barley is the only way to go. Guy should have used another can of extract instead, and pre-hopped extract is something a strongly recommend against. The oil in hops that adds bitterness to the sweet taste of the wort makes for a balanced beer. These oils are volitile, meaning they can break down and lose their flavor and bittering power.

I didn't see part two, but it sounded like this guy did not cool the wort enough. Did he get it down to 75 or less?

I thought I gave you the info... I said Google "howtobrew". That will get you to Palmer's site. There you can read part of his book. He will steer you away from bogus methods, like adding corn sugar to the brew pot. This guy is a hack as far as I am concerned. He is the classic example of the guy who brags about home brewing and everyone else thinks it sucks except for him.

I can lead you to water, but I can't make you drink. 1moreTrich lnows what he's talking about, but you will never get the info you need to make good decisions here until at the very least you take the intiative of visiting Palmer's web site. If you aren't willing to look into this on your own... don't bother.

The name of Palmer's book is the same as his web site. How to Brew. Just Google it man. I don't have enough posts here to post the link. Most good starter kits include Palmer's book, as I previously told you.

I repeat: If you want to brew good beer, you need a good guide, and that is Palmer's book. If you are as lazy as this guy in the video, your beer will be as lousy as his is, and trust me, it's lousy.

Any of you ever make mead?
Posted via Mobile Device

she's ;)

Oh, I plan to check out that website. Just haven't had a chance. Most of my posts on this have been from when I'm at work (heh, slow time of year). And I don't think our monitoring software won't allow me to go on a site like that. I simply haven't had a chance to look at it at home. But I will for sure.

Holy crap! A chic that can home brew. :thumb:'

Edit: Perhaps you should not have given that info. Now you will have a ton of CP males bugging you. :p

Um... married? :D:hmmm:;)

ROFL


See what I mean, 1moreTRich?

It's cool, I already said it in one of the other many threads I posted in, lol

And yes, I am married.

:crybaby::sulk::BLVD::harumph:

idk why a fella couldnt just get a 55 gal. drum that seals and a burner if he wanted to make enough to last.