Handy-Man Corner
 

I'm tired of bad Chiefs news.....


I thought it would be a good idea for a thread on the Handy-Man.

Do you have any Home remedies, gadgets you've made, advice on car repair, home maint, sollutions to kill weeds in your yard, bugs in your garden?

Use Coke to clean your batteries? That type of stuff.
Home made floor dry?

I dunno about your neighborhood but in mine it seems more people like to smoke their weeds.

Anyone have any Brilliant ideas to roll up a garden hose........or an easy, cheap way of rolling and storing extension cords?


It may not be rocket science........but I keep some of the plastic Laundry soap jugs, cut the tops out of them and use them to store nails, screws, electric stuff and other "garage items".

I finally invested in some of the store-bought garden hose rollers. I resisted for a long time, but they really are effective. I have one that is self-standing and another that I attached to the house. I like the one one the house better, but they're both adequate. I know it's not a homeade remedy, but it works.

As for extension cords: Coil it in an electrician's loop, drive a #16 nail into your shed racks, and hang it up.;)

Oh here's one for all you hunters/skiers/whatever that wear down jackets:

Wash in one of those side-loading washers found in laundromats (or hand wash) using NikWax down-friendly detergent. Don't panic when you remove the jacket, and it looks ruined. Throw a couple of tennis balls into the dryer with the garments, and it will fluff back up as good as new.

Extension cords (especially the flat type) are best kept in an empty sheet rock mud bucket.
Cut a hole in the top of the lid, cut another hole on the side of the bucket towards the bottom. Take the male end (the end that plugs into the wall) and pass it through the bottom hole (from the inside out), coil the rest of the cord in the bucket. Take the female end of the plug and pass it through the hole in the lid, then place the lid on the bucket.
To use you just pull out the amount of cord you need, when done just shove it back into the bucket.

Or you can have your wife wash it.

Now get out of here Martha, this a man's thread.

My wife doesn't come anywhere near my "gear."

I braid my extension cord. It keeps it compact, easy to carry and it pulls apart without tangles every time. Here's how (the best I can explain it).

Take the cord and fold it in half. Loop the folded end over your wrist and grab the doubled up cord with the same hand. Pull through to make a loop. Stick your hand through the loop, grab the doubled up cord and pull through, creating another loop. Repeat until the end and knot it up so it doesn't unravel.

It may sound difficult here, but it really isn't and is the best way to store extension cords, hands down.

Thats a good idea red........I've got a couple of drywall buckets and lids. They'll take up a little more storage space that way...........but thats the kind of stuff I"m looking for.

Donk......I think I've seen that done.......and I think I can follow that instruction.

I tend to just grab the end, and loop it like a rope, wrap and connect the ends and hang it up........and its a pain every time I try to use it.


My contribution................You know the big orange Koolaide jugs.........and how they drip.

Take a 2ltr bottle, cut a small hole just below the neck that will hang over the button/spout.........Cut the side out, leaving the bottom.............It leaves a hole large enough to stick a cup inside to fill, and collect the drips and little spills that kids make.......saving a mess.

That's what I call an electrician's loop.

My wife wanted a clothes line but I didn't want to build one and have something else to mow around. Instead, I bought a retractable clothes line and attached to my barn. The other end hooks onto a tree and tightens up well. When she it done with it, she releases the hook and it retracts back into the wheelhouse like a measuring tape. It can be lifted of the barn and placed inside over the winter so it doesn't get corroded or rusted.

Works well for some nieghborhoods that may frown on that sort of thing as well.

Oh. For some reason I was picturing an old wheel nailed to the wall that the cord is wrapped around. Probably would work alright, but not very mobile.

Sneaky Leaf Camo enhancer....as seen here
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...rch&hasJS=true


You can get the same damn thing, for a fraction of the price.........Brideowanian bought a bunch of the decorative fall leaf strings at some hobby/craft store........... I took a bunch of it apart and pulled the leaves off, and safety pins to connect them to the bibs and camo coats.....and use camo tape to connect a few to my Bow. same stuff.

Use a clean paint brush to detail the cracks and vents in your dashboard.

You did a much better job of explaining it than me. That's how we always coiled extension cords when I worked construction, though. It looks kind of goofy, but it definitely works. You can toss ten cords coiled like that in the back of a pickup, and they won't be tangled the next day.

I found the best way to conceal bloodstains is by punching a mouthy Bronco fan in the nose, and then when his broken nose is gushing like Bud Dwyer's last video, evenly distribute the blood throughout the garment. Wash lightly in cold water after it dries, and you're ready for the next Chiefs' home game.

Sorry to hear it. Have you tried washing your legs in the shower?

Any Brilliant ideas on transporting Fishing rod/reels without busting them up?

I'm thinking of getting some 4-6" PVC tube with a cap glued on one end and a screw end on the other.

In the boat, get 2 velcro straps, screw them down along the edge, and they will wrap and hold them in the boat while moving/traveling.

If you have a snail problem leave a couple of spent beer cans with just a little bit of beer left in them laying around the ground. They'll be filled with dead/drunk snails in the morning. Makes things interesting for the guys at the recycling plant.

Discovered that one while camping a could years ago.

Otter
~bracing himself for the tidle wave of rep

That's the way to do it, Iowa.

I usually just leave the tangled/mangled rods in the trunk and board the boat with a 12 pack of my favorite ale.

Out here in the east coast, it's common to see a rod 'carrier' on the front grill of a truck, it's a set of PVC tubes that are held by a bracket in front of the grill. Sometimes, it's in the back of the bed closest to the back window of the cab of the truck.

Place the rods in the PVC tubes and off you go...

The larger poles used for salt water/deep see fishing are carried in this fashion since they're 15ft or longer.

For the fly fishermen: best way to measure fish is to cut notches in your net net handle every 2-3 inches measuring from the tip of the net down. Fish head goes at the tip of the net frame and where his tail lands on the handle it your length.

Hard enough juggling a 8 foot rode in moving water without having to break out a measuring tape.

Fishing rods:

I've made the PVC holders. They work well. Most of my rods break down into 4-pieces and already have a case with them, but for my cheaper 2-piece rods I made the PVC tubes.

Last weekend, I had a brand new rod and a new baitcaster.........put the boat in the water......got a snag on the first cast, while pulling it, the rod broke. The second cast, with another rod/real...got a snag (using plastic worms that aren't supposed to snag easily).....pulling on the string(so as not to break another rod).....the string cut my finger like a deep paper cut.

Which brings me to my next tip.

A Product called DERMABOND is being used instead of stitches in alot of cases.....straight cuts, not on face etc.........................If you wash cuts on your fingers etc.......you can pinch them together and squirt Superglue on them, smear it over the top and it will dry and hold it closed.

It works the same, costs $200 less..........the dr stuff is heat activated or something, so the Glue takes longer to dry.....but it works. I've seen some pretty nasty cuts fixed that way.

How do they get in there with their shells on? Aren't they too big?

The ones we caught didn't have shells. Either that or they took them off to get to the beer.

:shrug:

Oh, kinda like a lamp shade.

check it out: http://www.dgsgardening.btinternet.co.uk/slug.htm

In VA Beach I bought a Ram Charger from a guy that had a chromed out fishing pole/cooler carrier on the bumper.

Anyone know how to tie the "trucker's knot"?

I was loading some furniture in the back of my truck. Being the handy man that I am, my "tie down" technique consisted of multiple square knots and repetitive wraps. Not pretty.

My buddy tied what he called a "trucker's knot". It worked like a champ. The line was looped back on itself and could be tightened with a pulley-like action.

Yeah, I use them all the time. There's a couple of ways to tie them. Here are a couple of websites with pretty good instructions:

http://encyclopedia.thefreedictionary.com/Trucker's%20hitch

http://www.constructionwork.com/resources_details_1330trucker's_hitch_or_lorry_knot.html

They'll do in a pinch, but I prefer ratchet straps to anything, in all honesty.

Alright, just saw this on a flyfishing board where they were talking about canoes and how to attach them to cars. Anyway, this was an awesome idea that someone posted.

Here's some pics:

Anyone have any tips on winterizing a boat?

I know about Fuel stabelizers and filling the tanks to prevent corrosion..........and I've heard about "foggers".

Run it out of gas, if you can

You mean start it, and pull the gas lines and let it run dry?

I've got both tanks mostly full. I was going to dump them into my gas hog, but have been told to put stablizer in them and leave them full?

I plan on dropping the motor down and draining the oil, to check for water(gear oil) and refilling that.

I don't really know how to do this "fogger" I've heard about..........just take out the spark plug and spray it in and turn it over?

Use a product called "Seafoam" if you can find it as well. It will prevent any kind of rust from building up in the engine while it sits.

I second that. Miracle in a can.

how does this seafoam work?

Its a 50hrs merc outboard.

For an extension cord, this device is great.

http://www.cordpro.com/

Patching Ceiling texture.

The other day, I was helping someone on a 2nd floor project, when some plumbing broke and sprayed some water..........Of course it leaked an a perfectly good ceiling was damaged.

Anyone have experience with the "texture in a can" stuff? How well will it blend?

It is a stabilizer and cleaner. If there is carb buildup/problems, if that doesn't fix it, it has to come apart. Just add it to your gasoline.

Outboards. Yes my man, you have come to the right place.

Fogging helps coat the cylinders. I think it is a good idea in the bigger engines, but we have become lazy and don't do it anymore.

You run the fog through it until the engine stops. This way the cylinders are lubed up real good.

The only thing I don't like about fogging is:

a) there is still gas in the carborator, and
b) there may still be some water in the pump. you don't want that to freeze. make sure you get it drained as well as possible.

As far as your "draining the oil", I am assuming it is an injected motor. I wouldn't worry about it too much, other than looking into the oil resivoir and looking for moisture.

It got its start in MN when a bunch of old boys starting using it on their boat motors. It went from there and Walmart, Napa and a lot of other outlets sell it. It will put a light coat of fine oil on the inside of the motor to prevent rust. I use it to knock out any carbon build up in engines. You suck it in through an intake, let it sit for a few hours, start the car and it smokes like a stack of tires on fire for about 5 minutes. The stuff works great. It also works well on lawn mowers that are being stored for the winter.

a search of "winterizing boat" on howstuffworks.com
returned the following.........I still don't exactly understand some of the fogging....but I'm not an idiot, and can figure it out. thanks.

"Boat Winterizing

Outboard Motor & Fuel System

Fill the fuel tank(s) with non-oxygenated fuel and add the proper amount of fuel stabilizer to the gasoline. The stabilizer will prevent fuel decomposition and varnish from building up in the fuel system. Full fuel tanks prevent condensation from forming on the inside of the tanks. In addition, full fuel tanks pose less potential fire risk than tanks that are only partially full.

Start the motor and let it run for 15-20 minutes to ensure that the stabilized fuel has been distributed to all points in the system, including fuel lines, filters, carburetors, etc. This can be done in the driveway, using a set of muffs and a garden hose to supply water to the intakes, or during the last outing of the season.

While the motor is still running, fog the motor by spraying fogging oil into the air intakes on the carburetors or the EFI system. It may be necessary to remove the air box to access the carburetor throats. Some motors are equipped with fogging ports that make the fogging process much easier. The fogging oil puts a liberal coating of oil on the internal motor components and prevents corrosion. Refer to your owners manual for specific instructions on how to fog your particular motor. The motor will smoke profusely and want to stall while the fogging oil is being injected. A little extra throttle will ensure that the motor remains running until the fogging process is complete. Once complete, allow the motor to stall by continuing to inject the fogging oil. Depending upon the particular motor, it may be easier to perform the fogging by using multiple cans of fogging oil at the same time.

With the kill switch in the "off" position, turn the motor over a few seconds to remove any residual water from the water pump.

Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil directly into each cylinder for 3-4 seconds while turning the motor over by hand. This will distribute a light coat of oil onto the cylinder walls.

Replace the spark plugs and torque to proper specifications. Install new spark plugs after the first run in the spring to ensure the new plugs do not become fouled with fogging oil.

Drain and refill the lower unit lubricant. Replace the washers on all drain and vent plugs each time the lower unit is serviced. Inspect the drained oil for any signs of water intrusion or chunks of metal on the drain screw magnet. If gearcase work is needed, the time to address the problem is now, not in the spring. It is best to allow the motor to sit for a day or so after use to allow any air entrained in the lubricant to escape prior to servicing the lower unit. The entrained air gives the lower unit lubricant a "milky" appearance, that is often confused with water in the lubricant.

Check the oil reservoir(s) for sludge (a turkey baster works well) and fill the oil reservoir with fresh oil to prevent condensation during storage. If you own a 4 stroke motor, change the crankcase oil and filter at this time.

If the motor is equipped with power tilt and trim, check the fluid level in the pump and top off if necessary. Refer to your owners manual for specific instructions on how to check the pump fluid level. Apply a film of grease to the tilt/trim rams to prevent corrosion and pitting.

Remove propeller and check for fishing line or other foreign material around the prop shaft near the seals. Inspect the prop for any nicks or cracks. Again, now is the time to address these types of problems. Before replacing the prop, wipe the old grease from the shaft and apply new lubricant. Finally, replace the prop, thrust washers, etc, and torque to proper specification.

Lubricate all service points, including grease zerks, shift and throttle linkages, etc. Refer to your owners manual for specific lubrication points.

Finally, store motor in the "down" position. This will ensure all water is completely drained, and prevents water from collecting in the exhaust and prop area. Also, with the motor in the lowest position, the tilt/trim rams (if equipped) are retracted within the pump housing, preventing surface corrosion on metal that would otherwise be exposed.


Boat

Remove all electronics and store in a warm, dry area. Most electronic items come with a plastic carrying case. These cases make ideal storage containers and protect the electronics from damage.

Trolling motors should be removed and stored in a heated area. The powerful magnets in today's trolling motors can be damaged by freezing temperatures.

Remove all equipment and gear from the boat, including rods and tackle, anchors, ropes, etc. Check over all items for signs of wear or other defects, and repair or replace as necessary.

Check the water level in all batteries and bring all batteries up to a full state of charge. Clean and grease all battery connections to prevent corrosion. Ensure all switches are off or, better yet, disconnect all connections to the batteries. Cable ties can be used to keep all appropriate terminals together to ensure proper reconnection in the spring. If your boat is equipped with an appropriate on-board charging system, this can be left connected and on for the duration of storage. If not, check the batteries every couple of months, topping off the charge on each battery as necessary.

Check the boat's steering and electrical systems for problems or wear. Clean and lube the steering rams if equipped with mechanical steering. Hydraulic systems should be topped off and marine grease applied to the cylinder ram to prevent corrosion and pitting.

Vacuum the floor and all compartments to remove any spilled foodstuffs that could attract mice or other rodents. Fabric softener sheets, such as Bounce, placed in all storage compartments and around the floor of the boat is an effective method of repelling rodents.

Prop all storage compartments open slightly with a piece of styrofoam or something similar to ensure that air can circulate throughout the entire boat. In addition, containers of moisture absorber such as Sta-dri, available from most hardware stores, can be placed in the boat to absorb moisture and prevent mildew.

If your boat utilizes removable pedestals, such as the Springfield Taper-Lock or Swivl-Eze Wedge systems, apply a light coating of lubricant, such as Paraffin wax, to the plastic portion that fits into the seat base. This will allow for easy removal of the pedestals in the future.

Check all livewells, pumps, and hoses to be sure all water is removed from the system. This can be accomplished easily with the use of an air compressor. Another option is to flush the entire system with RV antifreeze.

If your boat is equipped with a speedometer and/or water pressure gauge, ensure all water is removed from the lines. Any remaining water can freeze and crack the lines.

Check and tighten all screws throughout the boat.

If the boat will be stored outdoors, remove the drain plug and store the boat with the bow elevated. This will allow any water that should enter the boat to be able to drain.

If the boat will be stored outdoors, place a plastic tarp over the boat cover, if equipped. This will keep stains from birds, leaves, etc. off the cover, and will allow for easy snow removal. Make sure the cover and/or tarp is supported so that water and snow cannot collect and pool.


Trailer

Remove, clean, and inspect the wheel bearings for signs of rust, pitting, etc. If the bearings are to be replaced, the bearings and races should be replaced as a set. The seals should be replaced each time the bearings are removed for inspection or replacement.

Rotate tires and check for proper inflation. This is typically 50 psi for trailer tires. Consult the sidewall of the tire for proper inflation pressure.

Inspect the trailer coupler and latch assembly. Replace worn or missing parts as needed.

Inspect the condition of the safety chains and all associated fasteners. Replace worn or missing parts as needed.

Check the operation/condition of all lights and wiring. Repair or replace as needed.

Inspect the winch strap, and replace if worn or torn.

Inspect all rollers/bunks, nuts, bolts and other hardware. Tighten or replace as necessary.

If the trailer is equipped with brakes, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir (if surge brakes). Also, check the condition of the pads and drums/rotors. Replace as needed.

Check the license plate for expiration dates, and renew as required.

If the boat will not have to be moved during storage, jack stands can be placed under the axles to remove the load from the bearings and tires.

If the boat will be stored outside, place a shield over the tires to protect them from the damaging UV rays of the sun, that deteriorates rubber compounds over time."

Ya know my house was always a mess, so I got married, then I found out she doesn't like to clean, so I got a cleaning lady!!!

Glue residue removal.

OK.

Who has an idea how to remove dried "liquid nails" and glue?

The situation is, I put in a new tub surround, and must have exposed a little glue on the seams. Now, its discolored, and doesn't wipe off with cleaning.

I take it you can't trim it with a sharp knife?

You picked a bad adhesive to want to remove. That stuff is exactly what it sounds like. I don't have any decent answer for you either, other then trying to paint it with enamel model paint or something.

Ironically, Liquid Nails has the product you may need.

Adhesive & Caulk Remover (LN-595)

http://www.liquidnails.com/artwork/a...ln595_tube.jpg

A unique gel formula that can be used to remove virtually all types of caulks and adhesives as well as paint removal. Cleans safely and effectively. Resealable cap keeps product fresh.

Key Features:

• No drip gel formula
• Quickly and easily removes wet/dry adhesives and caulks
• Safe and effective

Recommended For removing wet or dry construction adhesives or caulks, tool clean-up, and paint removal

NOT Recommended For vinyl surfaces, epoxy or silicone, plastic, painted surfaces, varnished surfaces.

Available Sizes: 6 fl. oz. (177 ml) squeeze tube

http://www.liquidnails.com/adhesives/ln-595.html

I'm surprised gochiefs hasn't looked at this thread thinking it said "Man-Handy Corner"

"I" you might try brake cleaner (or paint thinner) and a razor. Just do it slow and take off a little at a time.

There's also this stuff called "Goof Off" and "Goo Gone". That stuff takes bubblegum out of carpet. I may very well work on liquid nails.

I have used that in the past as well and it works great on some things, but not so well on others. I don't know if it would cut through LN.

Unfortunately I do...I'll come clean, punched a hole in the low part of the basement cieling during a game last year. That'll happen.

Mine was a fairly small hole so I patched with one of those metal and mesh pre-made patches and textured with the can. Worked fairly well, though it took a couple of different applications as I was a bit tenative with it the first time (my "orange peel" texture is fairly fine, but I found it actually took a bigger application than I imagined to get right once it was knocked down) but was a bit difficult to get to spray straight up evenly. I'd reccomend doing some test runs on spare drywayll scraps if you've got any, or in an inconspicuous location to get the feel for what you need, texture wise.

Also made a hell of a mess, so make sure you've got plenty of drop cloth or newspaper down on anything REMOTELY near it (in the verticle position that can sputtered and spit like a first-time bukakke actress).

It was actually really easy to match, once you get the hang of it and looks great now that it's painted, couldn't even tell it's there. I'd reccomend

And judging by your avatar, she probably complains that it smells like fish....

Temper, Temper. :D
ROFL BWAAAAAAAHAHAHAAAA!!!!!! ROFL

I might try the liquid nails stuff..........except it says "no plastic or vinyl"...what is a tub surround?

I've tried taking a razor knife to the stuff, but its in corners with seams(it was a 5 piece surround). I didn't have much luck.

Basically, I want to make it look a little better so it shows better. Hopefully soon, it will be someone else's problem.

Is the stuff you used solvent based? If so,this stuff looks like it might work, if you can find it. Website doesn't link to retailers, but does have a sales contact email address that might be able to help.

if you get mildew on some of your clothing because it layed against something damn or whatever, use liquid dishwasher detergent, put it right ont he stain and leave it a hour or so, it take it right out.

If you are really desperate try a drop or two of brake fluid on a small area. Let it soak in for a bit then try scraping it off. Be careful though, that stuff will eat right through paint and plastic type stuff.

Or you might try a good rust penetrant. I mean the real kind, not wd40. Mopar makes the best I've ever used. When it comes out of the can it's kinda foamy at first, then it settles down into a liquid. I have used it to clean/remove all kinds of stuff that nothing else would touch. One example from a few years ago : The boys had gotten hold of a leaking ink pen. They had blue ink all over my basement. On the tile floor, painted walls, wood trim, terra cotta type tiles around the fireplace. I tried everything I could think of and nothing would touch the stuff. I went to get my razor scrapper and it had some surface rust on it. Sprayed the mopar stuff on it and noticed the ink started coming off my hands immediately. That stuff cleaned every single thing the little heathens tried to dye blue.

Duct tape, bailing wire, and rust penetrant. The handymans secret weapons.

Very true.

As per usual, Thinking my house was done and ready for sale, and the impending open house, while working on the tub glue issue, the light fixture crapped out. I'm no electrician, but had a new one installed in an hour. I did think to turn the power off though, because it never fails that I get shocked or melt a screwdriver.

I use a milk crate for my 100' heavy-duty extention cord. I loop the male end to the crate so there is about 5' of slack to plug into the wall. I then coil/stuff the long end into the crate. It takes about 2 min to pull the cord back in and coil/stuff it in the crate. Next time I need to use it, I just pull out what ever length I need and it uncoils without any hassle.

Use dry laundry detergent instead of floor dry. It does a better job of soaking up oil stains and you can wash it off with a hose and then use a squeegee to finish the floor. This is no more work than sweeping and it leaves the floor much cleaner.

Dear Handyman,

My home has copper gutters that are original to the home which is 90 years old. The gutters are attached under the tile roof. My gutters have leaks, how the hell can I fit it? Can I patch and sotter the seems.

Thanks

Mr. Drippie!

"If ya get it, go to a doctor and get rid of it."

You could sodder the seams or you could just use a silicon caulk on the inside. Caulking would be much easier but the sodder would be more authentic to the original construction. How's the new house? :)

ROFL

Realtor: "This is an early century..."
Hoover: "I'll take it!"
Realtor: "But Sir, the gutters..."
Hoover: "I'll take it!"
Realtor: "But SIR..."
Hoover: "Shut up! I said I'll take it! Where do I sign?"

When working with PVC... PVC glue works too.

FYI. I knew about the Gutters, I made them cut me a check for 6K for buying there place so I could fix them.

The house is great, we love it. He have got over 4 inches of rain the past 2 days, and got just a tiny spot of water in the basement.

Very true.

If it moves and it's not supposed to; use bailing wire or duct tape.
If it's supposed to move and doesn't; use WD-40 (or your preferred brand)

I've heard of people who claim they can cure warts by spraying WD40 on them, and then covering it for a week with a piece of duct tape.

Somewhere on the planet tonight, someone's girlfriend is going to think their unit looks funny wrapped in duct tape, with wd40 dripping out the end.

Damn baby, looks like an axe fell on that thing. We better tape it back together.

Thats sure to put badgranny in the mood.

If you are cutting wood and you chop off your big toe, dip your foot into some Kerosene, then dust it with flour, so says my crazy drunk uncle

In a pinch, you can tie two extension ladders together to make a big step ladder. Which is what I had to do today. The Church's video projector is 17 feet above ground and there is nothing to put an extension ladder against. Since the local tool-rental place didn't want to rent me a ladder, I was forced to make my own. It got the job done - though I wouldn't make a habit of it.

Boy, that sounds safe.

I doubt OSHA would have approved.


Here's a pic....