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So I'd like to put one in the garage. Something nasty that I don't have to work on without breaking the bank. And yeah there's so much space out here that I'd have a blast driving it. There's some many differing opinions on them though that its a bit overwhelming. |
speed and cheap are rarely seen together LOL
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The dealer bought it back because of some manufacturing issue and the buyer turned it in. Almost like it was bought back because of a lemon law. May also have been sold somewhere else at auction. Shame-it is a beautiful car. The slideshow tells about it too. |
Yeah, usually a lemon law issue.
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Maybe-if they gave me unlimited bumper to bumper
and a car fax |
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Sold my Chevy II last saturday. Now ive been used truck shopping. Kind of crazy how trucks get more expensive in texas, a little less near me in Ok and are significantly cheaper in MO/KS then much cheaper in iowa and nebraska (but also probably have some rust to match that)
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My second cousin owns mid mo chassis shop so im on the look out for a future builder. My car was just in a weird spot where it was too outdated to be competitive without serious upgrades but too much race car to really enjoy as a quality driver. |
Bought a cheap gas f-350 the other day to pull a camper/winter truck. Picked up some fuel wheels and 35s really cheap. But the black wheels have brake dust in the black powder coat (assume it’s pc). Anyone know a way to polish/clean black wheels? If they don’t clean up it’s not a big deal I’m 9700$ into the truck, leveling kit and wheels and tires. But not a fan of dirty looking wheels lol. I may just powder coat them all black if they don’t clean up.
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Alright... i have a question.
I have a 2016 ford fusion with the ecoboost engine. It's not really my car, but the car my wife drives. I personally put 10 miles a month on it. It's under 80k miles total. Today while trying to avoid getting ran off the road by a semi truck I had to peg the accelerator and when i looked back to flip the trucker off i noticed a pretty big cloud of smoke. Now i parked and let it idle, no smoke. No smoke while revving when parked. No burnt oil or coolant smell has been detected coming from the exhaust. The fluid levels seem fine from the last time they were topped up and/or changed. Is this a sign of something getting ready to fail or just a one off thing from blowing the cobwebs out of my wife's grocery getter? I'm getting everything from cracked head, to bad turbo, to the air fuel ratio being off. Anyone have any idea? |
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Maybe oil remnants in the turbo caused by a possible leaking oil line, over filling etc. Totally guessing of course. |
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That sounds expensive and Bob Dole doesn't need this. |
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You'd think you could get more than 70k miles out of the pos before the turbo starts to shit out.
I don't know why, but I'm fully expecting the worst with this. I should just go trade it in before it starts clunking. |
The YouTube channel Just Rolled In has left me irretrievably traumatized over the stupidity of car owners and my wariness of buying used skyrocketed.
https://youtu.be/1VOlWxdyTxY |
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It causes no problems. When you pushed the engine in that situation, it is possible some of that oil got blown up and through the engine, causing the smoke you saw. It may sound strange, but it can be beneficial to occasionally push the car a little harder. Used to be called an Italian tuneup. |
That is called "WOT", wide open throttle. From what I understand, most cars should do a WOT every once in awhile. Get the RPMS up for 30 seconds. Blows a bunch of crap out of the engine and helps.
I try and do that when ever I remember:) |
Its fine
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Also, I'm obviously no mechanic and internet searches on car problems tend to lead you down the worst path. |
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I've just had terrible luck with medical bills/car problems/house problems in the past 18 months. God only knows how much I've spent. |
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Since it’s a turbo I’m guessing it’s a tiny bit of lag in the spooling of the turbo. Asshats with diesels tune them to do that on purpose because they think it’s cool to “roll coal”. I can’t think of a dumber thing to do, but it happens. Keep an eye on the things you said. Listen to the turbo when you pull onto the interstate (It will take power to do it, not just idle RPM). If it’s a good consistent whir, it’s good. If it sounds rough or inconsistent, drive it straight to the dealer. My guess is it’s good. Sorry to hear about your bad luck with bills. |
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Toyota 10000 dollar truck that will never be available in the USA.
https://www.motortrend.com/reviews/2...mobility-show/ Id be all over one of these. Like an old land cruiser kewl truck an more practical than a Gator. https://www.motortrend.com/uploads/2...ound%7C875:492 https://www.motortrend.com/uploads/2...ound%7C875:492 https://www.motortrend.com/uploads/2...ound%7C875:492 https://www.motortrend.com/uploads/2...ound%7C875:492 |
I know we have a few BMW owners here so how much truth is it regarding how much more expensive BMWs are to maintain than most car brands? Car prices have come way down especially on luxury brands. I have noticed that many 4-5 year old BMWs have a good sticker price likely due to leases turning over, so this luxury market gets flooded with cars these ages. Most cars in this age range are 50-60% depreciated from their cost new.
Is the low up front cost not worth repairs coming its way? BMW doesn’t seem horrible with reliability but specialty parts make any repair or maintenance expensive? Looking at 430i sedan FYI |
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BMWs are a 100% no touch from me. Would not let my family touch one, wouldn't recommend one to my friends. Literally, when looked at in the realm of quality/maintenance/cost of ownership, the absolute worst brand you could buy. Not only are they more expensive to maintain, they are not quality cars. They WILL fail sooner rather later, somehow. Then you get to pay extra extra to get them fixed because the parts are expensive, they come from Germany, and nobody wants to work on them. The shops and people that do, charge a premium because of the tools and knowledge needed, and because they are the pain in the ass. Also, they smell like crayons. Why do you think everyone leases them? |
Just picked up a ‘66 Ford Bronco. Needs some love
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Loved my 3 series BMW until the warranty was up. Every time something broke it was at least a grand. Once it reached 100,000 miles it broke down every month.
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I drove American made cars in my teenager years and 20s, with 3 cars having pretty shitty outcomes and being undrivable under 100k miles... including a shredded transmission at 80k miles on a Chevrolet. So, the only thing I was trying to talk myself into was a foreign made vehicle of some kind. Reliability.... everything I read that wasn't anecdotal basically leaned towards how freakin' reliable a brand like Toyota was versus lumping in a bunch of car makers after them...... meaning, the number of major mechanical issues across many vehicles (including BMW and Chevrolet) wasn't crazy significant. You get down to like Jeep and a few others that are significantly worse. I think for purchasing a BMW, look at how long the engine has been around... of course there's more variability with issues when you buy the newest engines out there and not one they've been making for years. Cost.. yeah, the few things I've had to purchase (or someone's insurance had to purchase) are expensive. Once had a rear view mirror ripped off and it was like $600 to replace. Someone rolled into me at a stoplight once and I believe their insurance had to pay several thousand because of all the sensors and stuff in the bumper. Longevity... I personally haven't taken one to 100k+, but it wasn't due to the worry of future issues or anything. I sold one at ~55k miles that had zero issues and have ~20k milles on another with no issues. Lease vs buy vs new vs used... I know you're looking used anyway, but all the research I did pretty much washed out. I think some believe leasing is always the way to go because of outdated mantras of buying depreciating assets, but capitalism says if one was clearly always better than the other, the economy would adjust.... and it has. Thinking about the warranty of a new car, driving it in its best years, trade in value, etc.... I did quite a bit of math and one was never the clear winner. Buying a less expensive used car obviously helps get you into one, but if you want it for the long haul then driving the first 50-70k miles is worth it. Overall... there's a reason people spend the extra money on them. They're ****ing awesome. I'd personally splurge on an inline 6 if I were you (I test drove a 3 series and the turbo lag was too much for me), but the transmissions are silky smooth, the power vs efficiency is superior, the ride is superior, the interior is nice, etc. I miss the V8 rumble of the last Chevy I owned, but that's pretty much the only thing I miss about it. |
We have a 2009 3 series that we had built to order. It has been one of the best vehicles we have owned. It has been maintained religiously by the dealer which I say is key to having a trouble free experience. I can't complain for a 15 year old car that has been paid off since 2011. I did recently have to have the rear struts replaced that pushed $1500 dollars to replace but I looked at it like, meh, 3 car payments.
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https://www.bmwnorthscottsdale.com/i...j1c56kbm11998/ |
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Guys,
There was a thread going on a few months back where I think HCF was looking at buying a new truck and a lot of topics were discussed, including how much you should try for an initial bid and how the salesmen use some kind of 4 square thing to sucker you. I've searched and searched and I can't find the thread. Can any of you help me? |
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https://www.chiefsplanet.com/BB/show...php?p=17409077 |
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Yes! Damnit, why wouldn't my searches turn that up? Grrr |
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