Chiefsplanet Car buying Experts
 

How much would you offer this dealer for this car? What would be your opening bid?
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...0854900&Log=0/
Pre-owned Accords this well appointed don't show up in my neck of the woods very often.

whatever market value is.
I'm not saying that to be crotchety.; mainly just to emphasize that the market prices are what you should focus on, and not KBB/NADA. With the availability of on-line car buying, both are nearly moot IMO.

find about 10 vehicles of similar year, mileage, model etc and see what the prices are. I did this on my wifes Xterra and quickly noticed their price was directly in-line with other used Xterras in about a 100 mile radius. deals are painless when you know what your offer is based upon.
:thumb:

$17,000 but I bet you pay $20K

kbb.com has it marked at $22,117 for a "fair market price". It has it ranged from $20K to $24K.

You might want to repost that picture without all your personal info.

Just saying...

Giving you a call to discuss.

fuuuuuuuuu...

hence the questions

I see you are taking my advice from your previous thread!

You better offer them $24k, you don't want to miss out on it. There is 3 more people looking at that car right now and they are ready to buy.

no doubt, killer suggestion

fixed

Nice to meet you my name is Jim Glover

So like someone said offer them 17-18k. Yes, it is valued at 22k but you know they didn't pay that much. NEVER pay the dealer what they are asking.

Let me call in a buddy to tell me what he thinks. He will be able to tell me everything I need to know and then we can talk about a price.

Ah, hate to tell you this, but that isn't a Trans Am

sorry, I didn't mean to come off in a negative way. (I probably typed too fast)

What I’ve done a few times when thinking of making an offer on a vehicle, was I looked up the same year/make/model with roughly the same mileage and ideally the same options (this part is difficult on the used market). But if you can get the year, mileage, trim etc, then you’re nearly there. I would then search about 75-100 mile radius of my location (or the general location of the dealer that has the car you’re interested in) on Autotrader, or something of the like.

I then logged the vehicles I would be interested in, into a spreadsheet, with all the information, location, price etc. Essentially just to get an average price, give or take. When I made my offer, I felt confident in what I was offering – so (if need be) I could demonstrate ‘how’ I was coming up with my offer. In the case of my wifes Xterra, they were pretty much within a few hundred bucks of the average – maybe a few hundred higher if I recall. But, it was a fair price, so I offered them a round number very near their price. And didn’t feel bad about it. Could I have spent all day haggling over $200? Sure. But my time is worth more to me than that. As long as I’m paying market value, or thereabouts, I feel good about deals and don’t lose any sleep about possibly saving a few hundred bucks on a vehicle north of $20k etc

shady memory here, butI think market value at the time was something like $21k and they wanted like $21.7 or just north of #22kk. I offered $21.5k and the deal was done. Even explained how I came up with the figure, showing them the other listings etc. My experience with car dealers is; - if you make a fair offer, they’ll take it 9 times out of 10. I showed them the comparables, and what I was willing to pay, and it’s really as simple as that. A lot of folks get hung up on the idea that the dealer shouldn’t make a dime – somehow thinking they should get a $30k car for $18k or something as equally unrealistic.


Once you find market value – you then know roughly what you should pay. Or rather, what they will likely accept as an offer. How much beyond market price you want to pay, is up to you (based on options, condition, etc). But I certainly wouldn’t go in there (not saying you are, but just as an example; I’ve had friends and relatives do this) pounding your chest saying “KBB says it’s $17k!!!!!! I’ll buy it at $17k”. They could really give a shit what KBB says.
New car offers are a breeze.

Thank You

I don't race for pink slips anymore

He took $22K. Thanks for the head's-up on this.

LMAO

All that research and you didn't even try...

My Nissan family thanks you.

This thread is full of bad advice. Offering 4 or 5 grand less than asking price on a vehicle is a good way not to get taken seriously.

The good advice is coming from Dayze and knowing what the market is bringing on a vehicle. If you know what the market is bringing, you can decide if you are getting a good deal or not.

The day of getting 2 grand off asking price on everything is GONE. Vehicles are priced to sell now a days, especially if they seem like a good deal. A typical used car in my inventory has somewhere between ZERO and a grand mark up. Rarely will we have anything with 2 grand mark up. So no, Mr. Customer, you and your 'cash' cant get 2 grand off of my car that I'm selling for 1800 under cost. Sorry.

Used cars is a BUYERS market, made so with the help of the internet. When you have a buyers market, you cant afford to have massive mark up, because the guy down the street wont, and your traffic is driven by the internet, and they can shop you and him at the same exact moment. So, when a dealer prices a car, they are typically priced to sell. If they aren't, you can tell by looking at similar cars in your area, and you can see immediately if its a good deal or not.

Don't go offering 17 grand unless you want to waste your time.

BTW, anyone who takes joy in making sure a dealer doesn't make any money should really re-consider there lives. I have a family to feed too, and I work for free too much of the time already.

edit: KBB does not write checks, and dealers/banks/auctions couldn't care less what KBB says. Try using the NADA blue book, as that's what the bank thinks its worth, and the banks are the ones writing the checks, not KBB.

wasn't worth the time.
there were 8 or 10 Xterras in the radius that I searched, for the mileage and year etc. all within probably $500 of each other.

someone will always buy a vehicle cheaper.

I'm sure I could've spent the day haggling, but it wasn't worth it to me personally.

now, if we want to talk about BDIC I was when I bought my Harley and the smokin' deal I got there, then that's another story. :evil: (it's by far the best deal I've managed to pull out of my ass lol)

Oh please, they aren't going to say **** you go away because he offered $17K. They aren't going to not take you seriously or make you sit in a corner wearing a beanie. He's not walking away paying less than $20 on an awesome day and he already knows it.

If I have people offer me 5 or 6 grand below what I am asking for a car, I immediately go into education mode.

Customers hate being educated, but sometimes that's what it takes.

Ok, but you know that they aren't all like you, yah?

All car dealers have some very distinct similarities. Can you add ridiculous lengths of numbers in your head yet? Do you have a lot of suits?

But they don't all know what they're doing. :)

I'm not sure what you are getting at.

Do you say some dealers DO have that kind of mark up in a used vehicle? It could happen I suppose, but a dealer like that doesn't last long with any competition, and its a VERY competitive business.

Any car dealer still in business after cash for clunkers and the auto bailouts does know what they are doing. thousands of large dealers have went out of business, and thousands more of the little guys as well.

I can do all kinds of math, but kiss my ass if you think I'm wearing a suit!

I read your post quickly, and read it as this. LMAO
I thought "hmmm. yeah, does hometeam have a lot of sluts"?
and didn't even bat an eye / consider if it was relevant.

Back in the day maybe.

Now I have kids instead :(

I have a hard time buying barely used Hondas (or Toyotas). They don't drop enough in value to make it worth it. You get better financing deals when new, you get the full warranty, you don't have to worry about some jackhole having abused the car, you can get the equipment/color you want, etc.

BTW guys, quit buying cars from people other than hometeam!

LMAO

took you long enough to mention that.

LMAO

...

Anecdote! The leading Nissan dealer in Denver... My dad called, introduced himself, and just said he wanted to buy me a specific car. No one could help. The GM, the finance guys, the salesmen were all out of the office. Only person there was a used car girl, and that wasn't going to work for him.

After 6 hours of no return calls, he finds my car locally and just takes care of it in California. 2 weeks later, he gets a phone call from the dealership asking how they could help.

2 weeks!

Sometimes bad companies do well because there's not much other choice.

THIS.
i was gonna tell him to just ask you, but thought i would look and find your post first.

with or without those hideous wheels?

There ya go.

Turrible.

My return call time on a phone up or internet lead is MAXIMUM of 30 minutes, my ideal time is 5 minutes. I get a phone notification and immediately contact the customer.

If I don't, someone else will.

So I talked to my expert and he says the seller wants too much. 23K is on the high end and is what it might be worth on a good day at auction. You are the one taking all the risk. The wheels are not desirable to a large group of people so it is going to sit for a while. You better offer about 14K.

This is mostly right, unless your the type that gets bored and likes to trade every year, then you have to seriously consider that chunk of equity that you are going to lose.

If you trade more in the 3 year plus range your devaluation levels out a lot more, and makes buying a new car make a ton more of sense.

Also, some people consider the fact that no one else has farted in the seat more important than the money they may lose trading often, and they are fine with that.

http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lvps7vMoy61qdna0x.jpg


Ok really though.

1.) If you can buy a car at auction price, you are in good shape.

2.) If you think someone is going to sell you a 2013 accord for 14k I would like to introduce you to my friend Mr. Straight Jacket.

3.) Please god, be trolling.

4.) You DID get right the part about the wheels, and OP can use that as a negotiating chip. The wheels suck, and devalue the car SLIGHTLY.

You must not have seen my first post in this thread. :p

boring honda is boring.

I did but I guess I don't get it :hmmm:

I haven't seen the car in person, but that seems like a very well appointed sedan for the asking price. I was actually in the mkt for a new Mazda3. I would probably end up paying $1,000 to $1,500 more for a news car with less features (and space)

I'm the source of my own excitement

Here's a question....how can I be sure the Carfax in the listing is the legit one for this car?

ahhhhhh

Well they are VIN specific. Vin on carfax should match vin on car.

If you have any doubts, PM me the vin.

edit: Actually I just looked at it. Its the legit carfax for that vehicle

cool brah, many thanks.

Lets put you in a new Ford :)

Maybe it's unfounded, but I have always been leery of barely used cars. Why would someone dump one so quickly and take the beating in depreciation?

My mother leases. Having a car payment is just always a part of her budget and life.

Well, a lease return is a valid reason (my Forester was a two year lease return). I was thinking private sales or cars bought in auction. Always makes me wonder if stolen or broken.

Ah well, I have a well rehearsed spiel for this question~

Basically, people trade for every reason under the sun. Sometimes they buy a vehicle and just don't like it. Sometimes they have a life change, they move, they find out they are pregnant with another kid, they get divorced. Sometimes they lose a job and cant make the payment. Sometimes they dont like the fuel mileage. Sometimes they have a short lease.

Rarely is it a deal where the car is a lemon or something (not saying that CANT happen) But in all my years in this business I have seen that a few times, as where the other reasons I have seen hundreds of times.

cases in point:

I once traded a lady out of a 1 day old Equinox she had bought here in town. She felt like she got raked over the coals, didn't like her experience, and generally felt bad about it. She walked out in the garage that morning and couldn't stand the sight of the thing flooding her with bad feelings from the purchase experience. So, she traded it in and drove away, happy, in a new Ford.

Just last week I traded for a 381 mile Nissan Altima. The guys at our local Nissan dealership had high pressured her into it, she didnt like the color, and didnt like the feel of the CVT transmission. I put her in a new Fusion, let her test drive the vehicle overnight so that she could be sure she really liked it, and traded her out. She lost about 5 grand, but we got her back all of her warranty/gap/credit life money and put her in a car that she actually loved. She wrote a glowing review about me, and us, and is happy as shit.

Just my anecdotal observations from the business~

That's nuts. :shake:

Those are somewhat valid concerns, but you have ways of finding out if those kinds of things happened.

If it was stolen, it will be on the carfax.

If it was broken, all manufacturers keep records of any warranty work or issues, and you can check with the manufacturer service department for warranty history on the vehicle.

Car fax sucks. Experian is a better place to get legit info.

I have used both over the years, and the insurance info they have is the same, and more vendors report service, with a greater amount of information, to carfax. I have always, always, found carfax to be more useful for history.

Its just anecdotal, but I have only pulled thousands of each~

Everytime I start posting in car buying threads, my inbox blows up with requests for carfaxs, help, etc.

One of you people needs to buy a car from me!

CarMax seems to have many Accords in the 2011-2013 range with less miles (or less miles per year) for several thousand $ less.
I'm having buyer's remorse on the $22K I spent on the car in the OP. Maybe there's still time to back out.

If you weren't 500 miles away, I would.

Just looking, within 250 miles of me they have 7 'comparable' cars, none have leather, and for what they want (no negotiating at carmax) he can probably buy the EX-L for.

Dem wheelz~

I deliver :)

Hmm, strange I pulled out of a GL550 deal 3 months ago after holding a clean carfax but experian showed frame damage. This is the 3rd time ive seen Experian expose damage carfax did not. just an FYI, I stayed at a holiday inn express last night.

A lot of times, auctions will list frame damage for any kind of modification. That means lifts, lowering, any kind of suspension modification whatsoever, which includes things like different control arms that allow alignments to be done correctly, or even non-stock shocks, jack marks, aftermarket trailer hitches, a small ding in the frame, and on and on. If it has ever been even TO an auction, it doesn't even have to be bought/sold there, and they mark it 'frame damage' it can show up. They are extremely anal with frame damage markings because they are just trying to cover their own ass on liability and arbitration between buyers and sellers.

Carfax does not collect this information from auto auctions (or not as many) and Autocheck does.

My guess is that is what you are seeing, rather than actual frame damage information from an accident provided by the insurance company. You should see that on both reports.

I could be wrong though, but I have seen the latter many, many, times.

To California?

Zero and stand firm. You will thank me.

It can be arranged. Have sold vehicles to California, NY, Florida, even Alaska.

We sent one to Hawaii once.

What about Arizona? Have you tried Arizona? I live in Arizona.

Is your name Nathan?

Ok this one is over my head. Explain?

There was this poster once...


Nathaninarizona.


He was nuked from orbit, don't ask. Very sore subject.

Just a reference to the movie Raising Arizona. One of the characters names was Nathan Arizona.

I read your Arizona comment, and my brain thought I should throw that out there. My brain isn't very smart at times.

LMAO...no shit? There was really a poster named that? Man, how did I miss that one.

Ah gotcha. No that's pretty clever. I just haven't seen the movie. I hate everything with Nick Cage but should I give that one a shot?

Yes

It's a cult classic. Very dry humor. Lots of one liners. It's not for everyone. I fell in love with it when I was a kid. But I know lots of people who hate it

Great characters. Nick cage, IMO is probably the least entertaining of all the characters if that helps at all lol