***Official CP Homebrew American IPA Collaboration Thread***
 

Here is the final CP Homebrew American IPA collaboration recipe that was voted on (mostly) by you fine folks. In order to move this recipe forward, I've made some estimates and suggestions on certain ingredients and processes. I have noted them as "(Suggested)" in the recipe. Feel free to adjust to what you like or works best for you. Most notable are the dry hops. Instead of doing a whole nother round of votes for dry hops, I kept them the same as the boil hops with suggested amounts and number of days. Everyone seems to have preferred dry hop methods, so I thought it best to leave it up to the individual but provide a pretty standard suggestion. I dry hop the ever living **** out of my beers so that's one I'll probably adjust when I go to brew this. The gravities and IBU's are an estimate as well. I left out things like Irish moss/whirlfloc additions, racking to secondary, and cold crashing, but feel free include any of those for you clear beer folks. On the surface, this looks to be an IPA with a low perceived bitterness yet a good amount of tropical hop flavor and aroma.

I've included an all grain recipe and an extract conversion via BeerSmith. Please see the note on the extract conversion below. There's also links to all the previous threads and some other links that you may find useful.

Thanks to everyone who participated and happy brewing. Be sure to update this thread with how your beer turned out and pics.


All Grain

***Note: The recipe calls for Cara-Pils/Dextrine, which is used to add body and head retention without altering taste or color. It also needs to be mashed. So the options for the extract version would be to steep the Cara-Pils/Dextrine or substitute Maltodextrin in the boil for it OR just leave it out (what I would do). I've never used Maltodextrin and with this being an IPA, I don't think it's impactful enough to use it, but do as you will.***


Extract

Recipe Polls


Helpful Links


Cheers

Nice work, United. Pretty anxious to see how folks beers turn out.

I think it could appeal to people who are normally turned off by super bitter IPAs. I've got a keg of haze to get through first, but hope to brew it in early July.

Cutting for a 2.5 gallon batch. but are those hop times minutes into the boil, or with minutes left in the boil? Based on the low bitter comment I'm guessing minutes left? Definitely seems pretty light for an IPA! May add just a little more early in the boil, and will definitely be doubling the dry hop as well!

Excited to try this!

5.75# 2-ROW
.35# Cara-Pils

1.0oz Amarillo @ 50min (10 minutes left)
.75oz Mosaic @ 40min (20 minutes left)
.5oz CItra @ 40min (20 minutes left)
.25oz CItra @ 20min (40 minutes left)
.25oz Mosaic @ 10min (50 minutes left)

2.0oz Amarillo @ 7 days
1.5oz Mosaic @ 7 days
1oz CItra @ 7 days

Oh, and thanks for running this! Missed a lot of the polls, but looks good!

The steep/whirlpool hop times in the recipe are after the boil, once you've turned your burner off. Sometime referred to as 0 minute additions. Let them steep for 20 minutes (I'll probably do 30).

I listened to a podcast the other week from a hop scientist/specialist, he stated that for every 10 minutes you boil a hop, you lose it's flavor/aroma oils and only the bitterness oils remain. That's why a lot of people don't like to boil Citra and other tropical aroma hops, may as well just use a traditional bittering hop if you're just looking for bitterness. IMO, anyway.

I love bitter, although I know many don't. I like the really skunky, bitter, citrusy IPAs. I know the recipe here is supposed to be milder.

But yeah, the longer the hops is in the boil, the more bitter and less flavor. But the less boil (like post boil), the more aroma and less flavor as well. So by only using the Citra and Mosaic in steep or dry hop we are increasing aroma, but not really much flavor.

Citra and Mosaic are two of my favorite hops for flavor, so it seems odd to me to not add more for flavor (even ignoring the low bitter level). Was actually thinking another addition of both at 5 min left in the boil.

I also prefer a cold break with Whirlfloc for a cleaner end product (not a fan of haze), and steeping minimizes that.

Maybe I'll go something a little more like this (just upping flavor and bitter a tad)...

5.75# 2-ROW
.35# Cara-Pils

.5oz Citra @ 20min (40 minutes left)
1.0oz Amarillo @ 50min (10 minutes left)
.75oz Mosaic @ 40min (5 minutes left)
.5oz CItra @ 40min (5 minutes left)
.25oz CItra @ flameout
.25oz Mosaic @ flameout

1oz Amarillo @ 7 days
1oz Mosaic @ 7 days
1oz CItra @ 7 days

I think that should stay pretty true to the original recipe, but kick up the bitterness and substitute a stronger dry hop for the steep. Thoughts?

Yeah man, play with it as you see fit and give us your feedback. I'm anxious to hear how it turns out.

My typical IPA hop regiment is with a Columbus FWH addition for bitterness and then nothing until flameout with some heavy tropical hops (Citra, Galaxy, Mosaic, etc). I also drop my temp down to 185F with an immersion chiller before adding my steep hops and I'm able to capture that extra juicy hop flavor and aroma that I like. Lack of flavor from my steep hops has never been an issue in my experience. Dry hopping is where I pick up all my aromas.

Gotcha. Do you find you are adding more hops in the steep when not doing any boil additions? How hazy are the beers you steep? Do you add any moss or Whirlfloc during the steep (assuming that it is probably ineffective if added during the boil when steeping)?

My beers are hazy, but that's primarily due to the yeast that I use and it's my intention to make a hazy beer.

And yes, I'm typically a little less than an oz of hops (not including dry hops) per gallon of beer, and 95% of those I use as steep/whirlpool hops.

I think you can still get a clear beer with steep hops using whirlfloc in the boil and cold crashing/gelatin, but I've never tried it personally. I personally believe that much of the haze comes from adding dry hops before primary fermentation is complete with certain yeast strains and not necessarily from steep hops.

If you don't read it already, and maybe I'll update the OP with, Brulosphy does some really fun experiments with different ingredients called xBmts. Typically he'll brew a batch and then split it into 2 using 2 different techniques or ingredients and then tests the outcome. One example being dry hopping at room temp compared to cold and does it make a difference. He's probably done one with steep hops and clarifying agents.

http://brulosophy.com/exbeeriments/

Awesome. I won't be able to brew until 2 weeks from now, so I hope those who start sooner have an awesome brew day and post pics.

Yesterday was pretty cool, I got to meet the head brewer at Torn Label and I walked in the back with him and he let me ask any questions I had. Then on Monday even though they're closed on Mondays, I'm meeting with the head brewer of Double Shift and he's letting me try some unique beers he's been working on and I'll have a list of questions for him as well.

Cool, site, thanks for the link!

It looks like he had the same issue (well, issue to me since I prefer clear over haze) with steeping vs boil...

http://brulosophy.com/2016/05/02/hop...iment-results/

Looks like he added Whirlfloc at 5 minutes and it had less effect in the steeped recipe. I'm betting you're right on the gelatin though, but to be honest, I'm too lazy for the extra step with how clear my beers are just using Whirlfloc and a cold crash.

Agreed! I'm hoping for a July 1 brew day at this point.

That's when I'll be doing mine as well.

Will have to post brew day pics!

Need a name for adding this beer to untappd. Chiefs Gold?

I thought about creating a thread for a name. Seems fitting. I'd be down with anything CP lore related or a tribute to any of our fallen CP'ers that were also beer lovers. Maybe we should see how it comes out first though, ha.

Anyone else here growing? First year, so not expecting much, but it's fun.

http://oi66.tinypic.com/t6x7y1.jpg

lol

Yeah, that would be cool.

Very cool. What variety is it?

Doing 2 UK Kent Golding and 2 Cascade. Supposed to grow well in my climate, but I think I'll be switching out one of each for something different next year. Unfortunately had a super late heavy snow and hail storm about a week apart in May. The one on the far right (cascade) was the first to pop up. Unfortunately I think the weather stunted him.

Just finished the trellis a few minutes ago. Just in the nick of time with how tall one of the KG vines has gotten.

http://oi67.tinypic.com/xeq361.jpg

Lonewolf IPA has a nice ring to it.


Damnit, Carl! IPA, if it smells good and has a nice mouthfeel, but the finish is terrible.

I thought about Lonewolf but feel we should save it for a Belgium if we do this again. Never Alone Wolf Saison or something.

I really like Damnit, Carl! or Springfield Gathering IPAids.

India Pale Antifreeze?
Chiefs Planet Ale, Burning Aids Tree Edition?

We could get pretty off with these.

Since I'm doing extract still, how much should I use to make sure I hit the 1.064 mark?

If you're using pale liquid extract, it should be 9lbs for a 5 gallon batch. If you're using DME, you may have to find a conversion online. Which a quick Google search indicates 1.25 LME to 1 DME.

I'll be using just LME. Although 9lbs according to the calculator online would put me at 1.067, which is ok with me.

Pretty good article on late hop additions, especially steeping.

http://beersmith.com/blog/2013/01/21...-beer-brewing/

Great read, thanks!

Myrcene is the only oil of concern temp wise, but obviously of huge import to an IPA. Have been stepping back hop additions to later for a while now, and just started adding on flameout and was happy with the results.

My cool down usually takes about 10-12 minutes (benefit of doing smaller 2.5g batches). On this recipe I think I'll try cooling to 150° and then adding the intended flameout additions, steep for 10 minutes, and then resume cool down. That should keep it rapid enough for clarity I hope.

I'm excited to give this a try. Now I just need to get off my ass and build a new false bottom for my mash tun. Made my old one from copper tubing and accidentally left it in a sanitizer bath for a few days. Turned green. :(

This looks great. I'll try to get on it in July as I have a few other beers I have to do first.

There is absolutely no reason this shouldn't just be called...

IPAids

Can we get a list of who all is going to brew and then maybe try to set a brew day weekend in mid to later July?

I am definitely going to make this....but I have to wait until the heat gets a little better...We have no AC (none is needed most of the time) and temps are getting crazy hot right now..(by our standards anyway...) ..

I'll probably start on it in a week or so..Looking forward to it

I'm gonna have to do the old fashioned sugar priming method as I dont have any co2 gear and all my gear is like 15 yrs old lol

I've decided to alter the IBU on this a little bit and get it to 58 in honor of DT. I just think an IPA needs to be above 40 at minimum, and 58 gives me a good reason. But otherwise, everything else will be the same.

I like the tribute and by all means tweak the recipe as you please, just understand that IBU is a complicated calculation that is rarely accurate. Especially when you're steeping as wort temps are falling. That's why I listed it as an estimate. Also water profiles can enhance perceived bitterness independent of IBUs.

Let us know how it turns out.

I can update the OP with names of who's interested in brewing. I'll probably brew early July though as I have out of town guests coming early August and want something fresh on tap for them.

After the brew day I'll post pics and also post how I moved the hops around a little bit.

Here's a good article on IBUs and its relevance.

https://www.craftbeer.com/craft-beer...misconceptions

I was actually going to post that exact same article.

I don't know who to trust between Daniels, Garetz, Rager, and Tinseth. Why do all of their systems have such a wide discrepancy between their IBU ranges for the same formula?

I read that article, and it was good. And although beer can be whatever you want it to be, I just think 5 to 15 IBU's isn't an IPA. We want this to be an IPA, but we're taking away the classic IPA bitterness. I've literally never found an IPA with lower than 35 or so IBU's. Maybe this can be a new fad that CP has come up with, also maybe since I'm new to this, I'm overthinking it.

Lower bitterness, bigger hop flavor IPAs have been trending for awhile now.

Yeah, in session IPAs which still typically hang around 40 IBU's which is low for the style of a regular IPA.

Had to read the thread title twice. Couldn't figure out the first time why there was a beer discussion geared toward Hebrew Americans going on here.

The original recipe shown in the OP is actually about 48IBU, I have no idea why its showing what it is.

That being said you can get a rough estimate of IBU's being put into the beer but maltiness, attenuation, and many other factors can cover much of that bitterness or expose it.

Think about session IPA's (no real such thing) with low ABV only having about 30IBU but tasting very hoppy vs an Imperial Stout with 100IBU that has almost no hoppiness to it.

This recipe at roughly 6% with almost no maltiness due to grain bill, 48IBU with a decent dry hop its going to have some hop flavor to it for sure.

General rule of thumb that distinguishes an IPA from a Pale is an IPA has at least 1 IBU / point of OG over 1.00.

Meaning 1.060 OG should have 60+IBU.0

That being said as mentioned before many breweries are going lower on IBU and higher on dry hop and late hop addition.

The reason for that is the low OG (Original Gravity) of session IPA's. Thats a perfect example.

1.040OG would want around 40IBU to be considered an IPA.

That being said I have seen lower IBU on session IPA's but eventually you are kind of distorting the lines of what the beer really is.

Which really who cares as long as it taste good?

The IBU in the OP is a BeerSmith calculation when I input the recipe. It should read 57.

Well I never did plug in the listed formula into an IBU calculator, but 48 is much much more reasonable than 5.7. I've been looking at the 5.7 and thinking there's no way that can be an IPA with such a low IBU rating.

I was legit interesting in seeing how that turned out amongst CPers, I know I just didn't want to potentially ruin a beer by giving it no noticeable bitterness qualities.

So it's basically what I was going to do anyways when I wanted to turn it into 58.

Ha, my bad. Can't believe I didn't catch that until Marcellus posted.

Glad this is all figured out ROFL

My BeerSmith is adjusted for my equipment (like yours is I am sure) and I probably have a little different profile than your set up. I try to brew larger than 5gal because of trub losses etc..so to do a 5gal batch in the keg it adjust for more volume. Likely why mine ended up at 48.

:thumb:

I had to move my IPA brew day back to July 8th. I realized I was about to make a Raspberry imperial red ale and was going to need to move the beer over to the secondary with the raspberries, so I'll make this thing, then have the primary open for business for the IPA by the weekend after.

Who all is brewing this weekend?

I'm planning to brew on the 8th as well. Heading out this weekend to pick up my ingredients.

I think I am brewing this beer this weekend. I will take plenty of pics along the way and post my numbers.

<img src="http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b539/KCUnited1/tenor_zps7vddttg0.gif" border="0" alt=" photo tenor_zps7vddttg0.gif"/>

I wonder if we could get a CPer with some graphic arts skills to design a label?

Unlike most of my beers I plan to exclusively bottle this one for ease of distribution.

If you don't mind, what's your bottling process like? Mine has always been to rack from primary to a bottling bucket and bottle with a wand and I always seem to get overly oxidized hoppy beers. Do you have any specific controls to prevent oxidation in your process? I've thought about blasting my bottling bucket with CO2 before racking to see if that helps. Nothing more frustrating to me than waiting for bottles to condition only to have the beer come out oxidized.

I actually rack into a keg I purge with CO2 as if I were kegging it then I use a small amount of CO2 to pressurize the keg and use a beer gun to fill the bottles.

Its a pretty fast process and it minimizes oxygen as much as I can do.

Honestly its been so long since I bottled a hoppy beer that I cant remember when it was.

I really need to invest in a beer gun.

I think we should call this beer "2PM IPA". CP Collaboration Brewing.

Great double meaning there.

I'm good with that.

Will be brewing Monday here.

How's the brew going?

I ended up doing 2 this weekend. Did my Imperial red ale which turned out with 1.076 OG, then we're doing a blackberry IPA, 1.058 OG.

Still hoping for this weekend as brew day for the Chiefsplanet IPA.

Did mine today. 1.056 OG. Only snagged 1 picture since I was playing with a new smoker as well. Tough trying to time everything. Just a 2.5 gallon mini batch.

http://oi68.tinypic.com/2iuvvup.jpg

Oh, did get to use new QD's today! Worth every penny!

Awesome.

How do you aerate your wort?

I literally just shake my carboy around for a couple minutes and swirl it.

Yesterday we used a fermenter bucket for the first time, and it wasn't quite as easy as my glass is.

Also, I've heard of people pitching their yeast, THEN aerating afterwards. Which seems a little strange to me. I thought the point of aeration was for the yeast afterwards to grab onto the fermentable sugars and that the yeast actually needs the oxygen at the beginning stage.

I've always aerated then pitched.

I hate "stuff" in my beer, so I pour through a fine mesh strainer from the pot to the bucket or carboy. That aerates the crap outta the wort. Just sprinkle dry yeast on top and done.

I love buckets, but bought a cheap 4 gallon glass big mouth to try out. Will keep it for secondary on sours, but think I'm going back to buckets. I have a 10" strainer that works perfectly on a bucket with 3 gallons of wort. The big mouth requires the smaller 5" strainer which clogs up super quick. Think I cleaned out the strainer 6 or 7 times while going through 3 gallons today.

Cool.

I really need to get a strainer. I love hoppy ass IPA's, and although during the siphon I do a great job of avoiding too much stuff, I'd like to have a strainer just for my post boil pour. I used a Whirlfloc tablet for the first time twice this weekend, so we'll see how that makes a difference in the clarity.

I mainly wanted it for my Red ale, which is literally a Chiefs beer. Everything about it was based around Chiefs #'s or timing. I wanted that red clarity to come through well for that one.

My wife is helping out now and we bought that plastic bucket, she was so disappointed this morning when she woke up and saw her airlock wasn't moving or hadn't moved at all yet (8 hours after pitching).

Now it's moving along just fine, but I warned her, airlock activity isn't conclusive of fermentation anyways.

My Hoppy Honey Wheat which was my 2nd ever beer turned out terrific. Lightly carbonated which I liked. I used 102 grams of corn sugar and it turned out great for 38 bottles.




Also: For those in Johnson County, Brew Lab is opening July 5th. Come check it out. I'm a part of the JoCo homebrewers association now, and have met some awesome awesome like minded people which has been a great motivator. Brew Lab will be our meeting grounds each month for the group.

:)

I check for bubbles constantly too. My very first beer I put in the basement to ferment. Nice and cool and dark. After three days and no bubbles I put a thermometer next to the fermenting bucket. 52 degrees. :) I now ferment upstairs at 67 on the kitchen table under a box for darkness.

Whirlfloc is awesome. Combined with a 10 day cold crash and I get super clear results. I saw a marked improvement over moss. And yes, a post boil strainer is an absolute necessity for a clear IPA, at least for me. I'm too lazy for gelatin. Cold crash works tremendously for avoiding dry hop additions.

Alrighty weather is shit so I am brewing today! Brewing right now to be specific.

Ill try to live blog this so to speak. Already crushed my grains and mashed in at 150F.

Here is my grain inventory, I may have an addiction to brewing. 55gal gray trashcan has 2 50lb bags (or whats left of them) of 2 row in it. White 5gal buckets with screw on lids have various bags of secondary grains.

http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/g...pscsu5lner.jpg

When we started this recipe I already had 1lb of Citra and 1lb of Amarillo in my freezer. The only ingredient I had to pick up was the Mosaic hops.



http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/g...psl8qye1m6.jpg

Brew system consist of an electric hot liquor tank with temp control, a keg mash tune and a Bayou Classic Kettle. You can see my water filtration system hanging on the wall behind it all.

http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/g...pszvbdzper.jpg


All mashed in at 150F

http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/g...psmcmnqx8v.jpg

Sparge is done

http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/g...psbpm7ufmz.jpg

8gal in the kettle. Shooting for 6gal in the fermenter. I adjusted the recipe for this volume in Beersmith.

http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/g...psfpyofhpa.jpg

Awesome stuff Marcellus. Have you thought about making brewing a business, or is this just a hobby?

Oh yea several times. Still part of my 5 year plan. My brother brews as well and has went to several craft brewery start up classes at Portland State.

I have worked in manufacturing of nutritional beverages the last 17 years now so production management is my specialty.

Plan to open a micro brew around 2021. Maybe something larger.

2PM IPA is now in my fermentation chamber with S-05 yeast set at 68F.

I hit 1.058 OG so should come out just right at 6.6%.


http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/g...psdx00o0p7.jpg

Nice setup!

Nice work so far, fellas.

Got my WY1056 starter going. Shooting for a Sunday brewday.

http://i.imgur.com/BlTDOF2.jpg?1

Since I brew indoors and my a/c is still out, I've had to push my brewday to next weekend. It's already warm enough in here without kicking on a burner for an hour plus. #condobrewing

Same kind of thing happened to me. Pushing it back to next Saturday.

I'm adding the Raspberries and Blackberries to their respective beers today, which will create another small fermentation. I need to keep those beers in their current cooling buckets for the next few days during that, then I'll be able to have them free for the IPA. I'm in an apartment on the 2nd floor, so keeping temps down is very tough as it is.

I feel like my Fall/Winter beers will come out great due to being able to control the temps better by then.

Just added my dry hop additions. Plan to cold crash the 17th, keg on the 31st, and tap on the 12th.

If you want to speed this up considerably cold crash for a couple days, add gelatin for a couple days then keg.

Gelatin is super easy, sanitize a glass and put a cup of water in it. Microwave it for about 2 minutes, pull out the glass and cover with foil and let sit until its about 110 or 120 degress, basically really warm.

Stir in a tablespoon of gelatin then dump it into your fermenter.

Thats as clear as you are going to get.

I've thought about, but I'm too lazy.

I've also noticed that my beers seem to taste better about 5-6 weeks out. There's a pretty significant flavor change if I wait more than 4 weeks before tapping.

2 weeks room temp, 2 weeks cold crash, 1-2 weeks in the keg gets me right to that perfect (to me) flavor balance.