Plasti Dip your Car
 

I have a tree hugging ghey looking Prius 2011 Prius. I want to make it a different color, protect the finish & clear coat during the winter, while covering up some surface blemishes.

Anyone have any experience with this stuff? Apparently you can put whatever color you want, and as long as you spray it with enough coats it should be easy to peel off when you are ready.

I'm not a DIY kind of person because I'm a sorry excuse for a man, so would need to find someone around KC to do it for me. Hoping around $400 total.

Initial thought: If it would peel off easily it would probably not be good. If it doesn't come off easily, it would probably be a PITA to remove later. Seems like a lot of money for a winter coat...

LMAO....

http://i.imgur.com/seay1P8.jpg

I've used Plasti Dip on wheels before, and they looked pretty cool. I don't know that I'd want to use it on my entire car though.

I've heard it will last at least 3 years, even longer if you do certain treatments for it. I actually like the temporary aspect to it.

My fear would be that it would jack up your clear coat.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/doptehpZxW0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I think your prep work on doing your whole car in Plati Dip will have to be spot on. If not, it's just going to peel off in spots and look horrible. I would never do the entire car in Plasti Dip but that's just me.

I personally would just get a decent vinyl wrap which will look better, wear better and last longer.

Yeah, thought about that too. I have two areas where the paint is starting to peel back on the corner on my roof. They promise you that if you have an OEM paint job you will have no problems.

He's looking at a $400 project. It'd be $500 alone just the wrap the hood. Major cost difference.

Yeah vinyl wraps are quite a bit more expensive though, yeah? Not like refinishing your entire car, but probably at least 3 times as much as Plasti Dip if I had to guess?

Also, unless the car is garaged, those vinyl wraps only have a shelf life of about 2 years on any surface that's in direct sunlight.

No matter what, it's still a '11 Prius. I wouldn't bother.

For an entire car to be wrapped you'd be looking at $2K at the very least. Likely more.

I have some cancer on my F-body's hood and considered a wrap instead of repainting. I couldn't find a shop to do it for less than $500 in San Diego. Just for the hood.

There are some youtube videos out there with pros and cons. It sounds like it has to be done really well, or it sucks, there is no in between. It sounds like a viable product if it is put on correctly. Good luck.

Want cheap, look cheap.

It's BWilie though.

What's the durability of Plasti Dip on a car.

Really, that's not what I've heard/read. I've heard most can get 4-7 years out of wraps. Maybe those are garaged cars though?

Ah I see.

I found your problem.

San Diego.

I HAVE A HOOD ON A CHEVY TRUCK THAT IS WRAPPED IN CARBON FIBER AND CHROME AND IT WAS NO WHERE NEAR $500 Oops sorry, I just now saw SD reference.

As far as getting it shot in PD I would run a Craiglist ad in garage sales asking for a referal. $4-500 sounds fair if you do the degrease\ wax removal and do the taping off and trim removal yourself.
You can sand the pealing paint and prime it with 2 part epoxy primer (spray can) then wet sand to feather before PDing it.

Everyone i talked to about it told me just 1-2 years for non garaged vehicles on surfaces such as the hood, roof and deck lid. Especially the hood. Double especially if the hood doesn't have any heat shielding underneath, such as aftermarket hoods (which mine is). After that you can expect fading. My plan was to do a Carbon Fiber wrap and then spray it with clear.

My car is already Satin Black, but it's painted via SEM's Hot Rod Black single stage. But i two-toned it....Satin black base with a Gloss black top (hood, roof pillar, deck lid). But the Gloss black has cancer now. Sherwin Williams gave me the gloss black/clear for free so i can't complain.

Oh good lord.....its a prius. Just put it out of its misery already and be done with it. Let us know when you get a "real" car.
;)

Prius is the most cost effective car to own known to man. Efficient to drive, cheap gas, and lasts a long long time. I absolutely love them. The downside is I look like I care about the environment. I do not. This much I assure you.

Halo EFX. like Plasti-dip but looks like real paint. They even have a peel-able clear coat.

I wont argue with you but here in California the majority of Prius drivers act like self entitled bitches, covered in Bernie or Hillary stickers and I have grown to despise all Prius`s. I do remember when they first came on the market that a study was done and it showed that they were so expensive off the floor at the dealer that the savings in fuel didnt kick in unless you kept the car for over 15 to 20 years. I`m sure that has changed today but I laughed my ass off at all the tree huggers thinking they were saving the planet and money when the first models came out.

Yeah prices must have really came down. You can get a used Prius for very reasonable price. It's scary when the main hybrid battery goes out but you can get some with most of the cells recharged (for lack of a better word) for only $1,000 or so with a 2 year warranty.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/gXZeq9eXAys/maxresdefault.jpg

Nothing says pussy-repellent like a Toyota Prius.

I once plasti-dipped my truck emblems and the front bumper.

Stock
http://i.imgur.com/DHEhJNu.jpg?1

Dipped
http://i.imgur.com/vbHBDF1.jpg?2

Did it coat evenly? No dry spots or anything like that?

Yeah it was easy as shit.

One time the wind picked up though and sorta blew some of the dip away from where I was pointing it, but I just used masking tape and newspaper to cover everything near where I was spraying it so it just got on the newspaper.

For the emblems I left I rectangle open and sprayed the whole thing. 4 coats or so. Then I just peeled it from the truck and it stayed on the emblems. No problems.

What brand did you go with? I actually wouldn't mind dipping the emblems on wheels on my ride.

Heard this shit becomes brittle after 6 months and isn't as easily "removable" as claimed because of that.

Not true unless you put it on too thin. The more coats the easier it is to remove.

Yeah, heard the same. It looks like shit and doesn't peel off right if you go too cheap and don't apply to much product. Think they recommend at least 6 coats. I might try it myself if it is that easy. I think you spray one coat, wait 10 min. Spray the next coat, wait 10 min etc.

Instead of plasti dipping we went with a liner on this truck we sold. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b5d488f497.jpg

Wd40 is the best way to remove plasti dip.

Yeah bed liner is great. Lot more expensive though. I woulnt mind having my entire truck LINE-X'ed. I saw a Jeep Wrangler like that a few months ago, it looked tough.

it wont hurt your car one bit. Lay it on thick and its easy peel off.

If you try to spray can it you will get the same streaky results as if you had painted it with a spray can, to be done properly it needs to be sprayed from a gun like paint.

We did the whole truck for about $800... DIY kit...

I didnt realize that whole truck was lined...after enlarging I can see it now. How did it look up close? Ive read they look good from a distance/in pics but not great up close. I didnt get a chance to see the Jeep very close.

I think it was just called Plasti-Dip. Like a blue can with yellow writing IIRC.

In my experience, as long as you put on enough coats you don't see any streaks.

Best DIY color for Plasti Dip? I have a white car now. A deep blue might be kind of cool. I dunno.

I'd imagine you'd also have to lay it on "wet" and overlap coats with an even stroke, just as you would with any paint.

It's been a few years, but I think you're supposed to put down a light coat, let dry 30-45 min, another coat, let dry 30-45 min, etc. it has to be dry before applying next coat.

If you're going to do an entire vehicle dont even think about doing it with rattle-cans...

I think I had to buy a special nozzle tip too. But yeah don't do the whole car with the cans.

Jeff Dunham's old sky blue Prius comes to mind

Not sure why people think vehicles define you or your manhood. I find it odd.

Blame women.

We don't make the rules man, we just play by them.

I pulled up to pick up my wife in my shitty (but nice) little Nissan Sentra...my wife gets in and says, "Baby, we need to get your Firebird put back together and on the road, you just don't look right in this".

I must have found the right one. Mine really doesn't care what kind of vehicle I have. I guess if I was single, maybe I would have a nicer car. But don't have any plans. Too much work.

Girls don't like boys girls like cars and money. I think that was a Good Charlotte lyric ROFL

What could possibly go wrong?

I thought I would put together my thoughts and experiance of shooting cars using plexidip and the ready to spray version. Yes you can add the solvent yourself and come out cheaper but without warranty (I know: what warranty!!)
1st off I suggest a HVLP paint sprayer (warm, dry air) to shoot it with and the proper needle. I think it is a 1.5mm tip and nozzle for HVLP. You can spray with air using a 1.8mm tip but make sure you have filters for oil, water and dirt in line. Remember this is cold wet air your using.

I have sprayed whole cars with this and the key is in the details. You must clean it really really well, I suggest Dawn to get clean and then a citrus degreaser, and then another wash with Dawn.* If you have to do any repairs just prime them with 2 part epoxy primer and then wet sand and compound it to a shine.
Once done you need to remove all silicon,wax, and grease with a solvent made for the job. (follow the directions). Mask everything as best possible. It is better to mask less than too much as you can exacto cut and peel the overspray.

Make sure you have epoxy thinner or Industrial Maintenance Coating Thinner handy for use as needed. Prep the paint per directions, strain into gun, I suggest a real organic respirator for this job but others just use really good cone filters in a ventilated area, Use a real respirator not a toy!!!!

Start with an old body panel or sealed cardboard box (TV) to get a feel for prime, wet, slick coats as you don't want runs.:cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss

Start on the roof and do the whole roof. I stand on a ladder and spray away from my body to get a wet seam when I move to the other side.
Move to your quarter, door(s), and fender. then your hood and the down the other side and move on to the trunk (if you are painting bumpers then do them after the hood or trunk lid).

Wait the recoat per instructions and then repeat 2 more times. WARNING allow to dry completely, recoating over unflashed product will call lifting and bubbling!!!!! ** tip; I change direction on the 2nd full coat to avoid streaking but always paint the last 2 coats side to side.

*** PRO TIP:You now know about how much you need to go amount the vehicle. Make up another batch adding 10-15% thinner in the mix. Test it on your test box and see how smooth it becomes.. If you don't like it, skip this stage.. Practice till you can cover without runs!

After the dry time has passed spray a heavy, without runs, coat on the car as before and let it dry per directions.

Inspect for issues and uniformity and correct as needed, If a door doesn't look perfect, as in, lack of product applied, this is when you can fix it. Spray using the thinned final coat material as needed respecting dry times. SPRAY THE COMPLETE PANEL BLENDING INTO THE ADJACENT PANELS

You can now get a trash can ready and: A, carefully remove masking or B, clean up your gun, tools and trash. either way it's your call. I say mask then clean as you have earned yourself a beer while cleaning up!!!!:D:D:D

Insert picture of a cold craft brew here!!!!

Hopefully this either inspires you or scares you from this process but it is easy and fun and yes if you put a 5 coats total (one light prime, 3 full coats, and a slick coat on the car it will peel right off.


* never wash your car with Dawn unless you are waxing it immediately after!! :#:#:#

It was awesome. Nice texture all around. We blocked sanded the truck, primered it then sprayed it with the liner.

Hmm... because saying to valet that your car is the sky blue Prius makes everyone around you laugh thinking of a Jeff Dunham monologue. just imagine the wrist flipping.

Because I am lacking on the cranial follicle department and the Silver Mercedes convertible make up for it.

I drive a 78 El Camino SS, white w polished Z-28 spoke wheels (I am tired of people wanting me to sell it to them that I have never met) and a 2005 Crown Vic (four shades of white) for daily drivers (The Ford is for winter). When ever i pick my SO up in them she always reminds me that "This ride is not why she loves me" as she looks at bulge in my pants as it expands:D:D:D:

Yes I am well known for my performance antics as we leave her place of employment.

I have often thought about grabbing a old, cheap Prius and replacing the old cop car and then I think about replenishing the batteries ($1000 DIY), when the Ford knows that if it brakes, it's gone to the scrapper. All it gets is oil changes and tire repairs and a battery 3 years ago from the junkyard.

It looks like you missed that divot on the bumper.:D:D:D:D:D

Seriously, what product and what was the texture like.. was it shiney .Did it sell fast...

I shoot floor pans on restorations I have done with Rhino, as it is a great sound deadener. I have used it on a lot on outdoor hardware and ornaments. I even sprayed it on the top and bottom of my 60" mower deck and was amazed how well it worked. I have never used the DYI stuff as all the beds I have seen look like crap compared to Rhino. Seeing your truck painted with it struck me in awe.

Would you do it again

My Focus wing has been plasti dipped black for 3 years now no issues.

Yea, well, you drive a prius, so that doesn't surprise me~

:D you're right